Ask the Mechanic Answers to your motorcycle maintenance and service questions.

This page is courtesy of the fine service department of Bobby J's Yamaha 4724 Menaul Blvd NE Albuquerque, NM 505-884-3013

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Honda CB350 Cam Settings

My wife accidentally (?) threw out my manual (and a box of spare parts). I need to know the cam timing and valve lash for my 1972 Honda CB350. There are several marks on the crank, but none on the cam. I found the TDC mark on the crank using a dial indicator through the plug hole, but can't find anything for the cam. Also, which mark for ignition timing? The engine completely burned up one piston, while the other was fine.

Both valves are .002. If the cam goes through a hole in the head, then their should be a pointer at the top of the head and a dot or mark on the cam which should be lined up with the pointer. If the head splits in two with a rocker box, then the mark on the cam lines up with the back of the head. There will be a T on the crank for TDC, and there should be a mark for the proper advance (where the points close).

Hi, can you tell me the psi of the fuel pump for a 1991 honda fourtrax 350, thank you!

It is so low that you probably would not be able to read it. If it pumps, then it is working. If you are having fuel delivery problems, have you checked the petcock?

Hi. I have a 1984 Honda XR 500 dirt bike. The sprocket is well worn and it has a fastener with two bolts that hold it up against the sprocket. I'm ordering a new sprocket and fastener and wanted to know how the sprocket will keep from moving in and out on the spindle shaft? It won't have forward and reverse play but what keeps the sprocket from sliding in and out? The old one seems to have some play in and out of the shaft. About a half inch. Is there something else missing? A spacer of some kind? Thanks for any help

Just replace the plate. Once you get it apart it will be obvious to you how it works. Also with new parts, it will be appreciably tighter.

I have a question about a Honda Rancher 350 transmission. When I go to shift the lever it seems like the clutch or something will not let it go into gear properly. It jerks when I shift it up or down. Could you tell me what the problem is and how I coul fix it? I also would like to know if you had some kind of mechanical manual on this type of ATV, and how much it cost?

Adjust the clutch. On the right side of the engine there is a screw with a lock nut. Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw in until it stops. Then back it out ½ a turn and tighten the lock nut. Make sure when you shift that you back off the throttle as you make the shift. A shop manual would be around $20 from www.motorcyclemanuals.com.

Hello, I am having a problem with my 1982 Yamaha Maxim 750. When I got the bike, the owner told me it was due for an oil change and spark plugs. Not a big deal. I replaced the stock rotted out exhaust with a MAC 4 into 1 and replaced the spark plugs with the recommended NGKs. I loved it. Ran very well. Performed the oil and filter with no hassles. The bike would start on about the 3rd or 4th crank. One morning I was riding to work and all of the sudden it started running very rough, spitting and sputtering, backfiring, like I had forgotten to turn off the choke. I checked that, and it found it to be at the half way point. I unchoked the bike and it still would not run smoothly. I was only able to rev it too about 3500 before it would start backfiring. I got it home, and later that day tried to start it and nothing. It is getting fuel, and I verified that it is getting spark. I do not know the strength of the spark however. I checked the resistance of the coils, which are both okay, and replaced the spark plug wire boots with NGKs. I got them from a friend, however, and do not know if they are the correct resistance for my application. I tried a few days later and it started after cranking it with the plugs out. Ran for about 30 seconds, very roughly like before, then it dies and will not restart. I am kind of suspecting the ignition module or igniter, but am unable to verify the conditions of both. Can you offer me any advice? Thank you! Joe Campbell

You probably have contaminated gas. Drain the carbs and check the gas. You would see bubble-like water in the bottom of the container. If you see something suspect, train the tank and refill it with fresh gas. Then replace the plugs with new ones again.

I would appreciate if you could help with a sticky problem. I have a 1981 gl100 Goldwing that has sat most of the summer exposed to rain off and on. The front and rear calipers appear rusty and stick, can I lube them and with what or do they have to be replaced. I'm also in the process of trying to sell the bike. Thanks, Rich

Remove the calipers and use a fine wire brush to clean off the worst of the rust. Then use brake cleaner available from any auto parts store to finish the job. When the rust is gone, the calipers should move fine.

I have a 2003 YZ250F. I've had it about a year, and have never noticed this before, but did yesterday and am very concerned. With the bike idling the exhaust pipe gets cherry red hot at the cylinder. Is this normal? When I rev the bike up, it seems to cool down and the redness goes away. Any input would help. Thanks. Bill

Yes, they will do that. Check your fuel screw. It should be 2½ to 3 turns out. Turn the engine off if you are going to be sitting for a while.

hey there,Can you tell me what the carb settings are for a 85, Yamaha Moto4. Thanks

Hey there yourself. The jet needle should be in the second groove from the top. The air screw is 1 to 3 turns out. Adjust it for best running.

I have a CDI (IC Ignitor) Box and need a little direction on the wiring. Need to know each color for each of the terminals on the 6-prong plug and the 4-prong plug that attaches to the box. Part No. Type TID 12-07 Thanks for your help. Luke

We are good, but not that good. Get yourself a manual that will have the wiring diagram for that bike. www.motorcyclemanuals.com

This bike has a problem getting going , like the clutch needs adjustment. You give it gas but doesn't move very good. Any ideas?

Try changing the oil to 10/40 weight. If that does not help, then it is time for a new clutch.

Hello, I have recently purchased a 1986 Kawasaki Ninja 600r. Yesterday I put K&N filters on the carbs and got rid of the air box. The bike is kind of lugging out when I give it throttle. If I choke it I can give it about half throttle before it starts lugging. I was wondering if anyone knows how to adjust the air fuel mixture? thanks a lot, Trevor

When you opened the air box and put high flow filters on it, you increased the amount of air tremendously. That is making the bike way too lean. The only way to correct that is to rejet the carbs.

When I turn on the turn signals the headlight will dim with each blink of the turn signal. Any suggestions for a fix?

You have either a bad battery or a bad ground in the blinker circuit.

How hard is it to change the timing chain and what needs to be done on my 1983 Honda ATC 200. If you could shed some light on this for me it would be great thank you

If you take it apart, first set the engine at TDC. Make a note of where all of the timing marks are so you can reset everything to those points when you get the new chain on. Also, it would be a very good idea to get a manual. www.motorcyclemanuals.com

Hi I have a 1997 Yamaha timberwolf and was needing to know how to adjust the valves? Thanks

Set the engine at TDC on the compression stroke by either using a flashlight to watch the piston or a small screwdriver in the spark plug hole move to the top. Both intake and exhaust should have some play. If only the intake has play, then you are on the exhaust stroke, and you need to move the engine trough one more cycle to get it on the compression stroke. Then set the valve to .003 on the intake and .005 on the exhaust. If none of this makes sense, take it somewhere to have it done.

I was wondering how to time my 94 300ex? The timing gear has three dots. Which mark on the flywheel do I go by? Thanks

The flywheel mark to use is the T. For the correct cam mark to use, get a manual—I don’t know the answer. But when you are at TDC the cam lobes should be at 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock positions.

I have a2003 Yamaha Kodiak 400 2wd, just added Maxxis bighorn radial tires, stock size. Still has that rough hard ride going over roots and bumps on trails. Front suspension is independent wishbone and rear is swing arm, 7.1' w/ 5-way preload adjustment. Can you suggest a better/ smoother after market shock/suspension, or is this as good as it gets? THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH>

The problem is much simpler than you think: too much pressure in the tires. Run them at 3psi.

I just acquired a 1982 Virago 920. I'd like to know which cylinder is first in the firing order, the front or back, and also what the timing should be set at. Thanks.

With only two cylinders, firing order is not meaningful. One fires and then the other. The front cylinder is the one to use for checking timing with a timing light.

Hi, my 1970 Kawasaki KE100 will not start. It seems to not be sucking in any gas. Every now and then, it backfire's through the carb setting it on fire. Just put new rings in it but it has a bad base gasket. It also seems to be sucking in motor oil. Please help me!!.

If it has a rotary valve with the carb on the side of the engine, then it could be a bad o-ring between the carb and case. It could also be a bad rotor pin.

Can u tell me where the idle adjustment screw is located for a 1985 Yamaha 1985 750cc Maxim? It would be greatly appreciated, as this is my first motorcycle and I'm just learning to ride, but my idle is set so low that the bike has trouble staying started. Thank you

The idle adjuster is in the middle of the carbs between the carbs and the air box. It is a star wheel.

I am replacing the rear brakes on this ATV. I need a good solution for removing the axle lock nut. Also, is there any easier way to do this job rather than removing the fender, shock, exhaust, sprocket and axle??? Seems ridiculously difficult.

Sometimes they will use a reverse thread on the right side, so that normal forward rotation will tend to tighten rather than loosen the nut. And you are right, they do sometimes make it tough on the mechanics.

I just wanted to thank you for posting the answers to these questions. I have a 2001 yamaha blaster. I have let it set for about a year and a half. It start just fine, but it will not run with the choke all the way in. It rode well with the choke about half way. However, there were still times that it started to jerk, almost like it wasn't going to cut out. I think from the answers you have posted, I should first start by draining and replacing the existing gas. I should also add fuel stabilizer with the first tank. If have missed something please let me know. Thanks again for this great site. Bradley

You need to clean the pilot circuit and main jets in the carb. You are only getting gas when using the choke. And thanks for the kind words.

I have been working on a 1984 Honda Magna that I purchased recently. Before I got it home and started it, the bike hadn’t been started for about 3 years. I replaced the battery, ran some fuel cleaner through it, and fixed the throttle (which was sticking real bad), but now that I have got it running I can not back off more than half-way on the choke with out it dying on me. Any idea what this could be? Thanks, Robert

You need to clean the pilot circuit and main jets in the carbs. You are only getting gas when using the choke. And these are pretty tough ones to get at to remove and clean. Good luck.

I have a 01' gixxer that I can't get to start. I rode it one night and parked it in the garage. The next morning, I put the key in the ignition and tried to turn it on; and nothing. I didn't get any display or lights or horn. I had the battery checked and it checked out good. I took off all plastics to wiggle all the wires and check fuses, still nothing. The auto parts store gave me a new battery and put it on charge for 12 hours, still nothing. The only wires that I get power in is the orange one that goes to the ignition switch, (my test light goes off and on when I turn the key off and on) and the red wire. Any suggestions would be gladly appreciated!!!!! Thanks, Tremayne

You need to check the main fusable link, usually under the seat, and in line with the main battery feed. There may also be a main fuse somewhere apart from the rest of the fuses. The other possibility is a bad main switch.

Hi my name is Dawn and I have a 1986 suzuki ls savage 650 and my timing chain has to be fixed how do I take of the timing chain and then put it back on and can I adjust the timing chain to tighten it.

Are you sure you need to replace it? Why? Most bikes have automatic chain tensioners which eliminate the need to ever adjust them. If you do want to take it apart, then definitely get a shop manual for that bike.

Hello, I just recently replaced my piston on my Honda ATV and have had a very difficult time starting it after I put the engine back together. The engine cranks over and everything works normally except for the fact that it is backfiring through the carburetor. It has never actually started, but it attempts to start then if backfires so violently through the carb that it blows the carb off of the rubber mount it is on. I have tried adjusting the timing chain several times as per the instructions on the Clymer Manual, but I have had the same results every time. I have read the manual over and over and can not figure out what I am doing wrong. Can you advise me on what I might be doing wrong? Below is my bike information:

Year – 1988

Model – Honda Fourtrax 300 4X4

New Piston – Wiseco .40 over

The bike was very hard to start before I re-did the piston, it took a long time to start at the first attempt, but once it started the first time, it would start right up after that.

You are still not getting the cam timed right since it is firing while the intake valve is still open (thus blowing the carb loose from the intake. You probably should get some help at this point.

Hi I have a 2001 Warrior and have cleaned the carb but it still wont run. I was wondering if there is a oil check safety switch to where if there isn’t enough oil it wont start? I bought this brand new and have only about 6 hours on it in 2 years. Thanks for any help you can give me. Mark

Change the oil. Remove the old gas and replace with a tank of new gas. Then put a new plug in.

Hey, thanks for taking my question. Too keep it short I have quite a bit of experience working on Honda 3-4 wheelers but have never came across this problem. The 97 300ex was disassembled to its base gasket easy enough, but I'm thinking that I will have a problem on reassembly because normally the top of the head is open on the cam gear side, and you can verify cam position with the crank position verifyed with the magneto or crank timing mark on the left side. The 97 300ex doesn't have the open side so how can I install the chain and tensioner properly with confidence that I have the cam in the right place and I'm not a tooth or two off? Right now if I had to do it on my own I would get the crank in position and install the jug and head. Then the chain and gear would be put on and lined up and then the tensioner would be placed in there but the other end of the cam (I think) would be pressed up, no? Or is there a means for holding the cam down in position other then the OHV cover? Just wanted to clear up a few things before I start putting this together as I was unable to find a book locally and didn't really think I would need one as I have the torque specs, new gasket kit etc.. and I'm ready to do this. Thanks for any input in advance. Greg Tripp Augusta, GA

The sure-fire way to know you are where you need to be is that the cam lobes point at 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock when you are at TDC on the compression stroke. If you are in the neighborhood, then you should see the cam alignment dot on the cam or sprocket close to the pointer or aligned with the rear head surface. What was holding the cam in place when you took it apart?

My son's bayou 220 is leaking gas through the overflow. Just a litlle.
Being a mom I hope I can tackle this on my own before spending big bucks. Can you
please help me? It is a Kawasaki bayou 220 Thanks, Alex.

It may have a piece of gunk in the carburetor. Tap lightly with a rubber or wood mallet on the carb body. This can sometimes dislodge the offender. Otherwise, if that does not work, clean the carb and set the float a bit higher.

I just bought a 2000 Warrior. It runs great all but at about 1/2 throttle it acts up. It spits and sputters tries to die. What do I need to do? Thank you for your help. John

We have had one that did the same thing. We solved the problem by installing a smaller main jet in the carb.

My 1970 Kawasaki KE100 sometimes backfires through the carb. It doesn't seem to be getting any gas and I just got a new carb for it. It has a bad base gasket and no cover things to make it air tight around the carb's face plate but it ran before like that but now it doesn't even want to make a putt. All it does is backfire through the carb. It has good spark and I just put new rings in it. Please help me if you can

Make sure you did not break a ring putting the piston back in. Also check that the piston is in right. Be sure the carb settings are correct. Check for leaks between the carb and the intake.

I am thinking of putting a larger rear wheel and tire on my Yamaha V-Star 650. I was curious to find out the maximum size that my swing arm could accommodate? I have contacted my local Yamaha retailer and they seem to be very little help. Please advise as to what size I can put on with out damaging any of the pre-existing components. Thanks in advance for the help.

I have never seen any specs for this and have not done it myself, but just looking, it seems like a 17-inch rim with a 180/60-17 tire might fit. It is hard to tell without actually trying it.

Have a 1991 Yamaha Blaster 200 and it won't fire. Had a new coil put on it, a stator, new spark plug and still won't fire. Please help in any way you can. Krista

Well, Krista, the only electrical thing left is the CDI box. I am assuming that you are getting fuel but no spark.

I just bought a 1998 Virago 1100 with less than 3,000 miles so it has apparently spent a lot of time setting up. It started running rough and doing some backfiring so I pulled the plugs. They were new plugs but were starting to foul up. I cleaned them and it was fine for a couple of short trips. Now it acts like it is starting to run a little rough and last night it backfired again. If it is the carburetors, is there something that I can treat the gas with since it is not too bad? Or if not the carburetors, what could it be? Thanks for your help. Db

Get down to a Yamaha Shop and buy a bottle of gas stabilizer (in the black bottle). Put 2 ounces per gallon in the tank. Change the spark plug to one step hotter. Should fix the problem.

How do you change the water pump in a 1995 polaris explorer?

You need to pull the right cover and the flywheel stator plate to get to the water pump. The water pump is at the front. But do get the manual before doing this, okay?

I just bought a Yam SR 400 (am living in Thailand) and wish I hadn’t - but anyway it ran fine until a local mechanic adjusted the valve clearances and now it runs horribly. Please tell me what the clearances are supposed to be so I can adjust them myself... (Cant find an on-line manual). Much obliged.

That is not a US bike, but most Yamaha singles are .003 intake and .005 exhaust.

I have had the cylinder bored and have a new piston but do not have the instructions for installing the rings. One ring has a N on it and the other has no markings. I don't know which one goes on top. I think the N would go up. These are the ones that came with a Wiseco piston. Thanks for any help. Thanks, Andy

The ring that does not have a sharp edge goes on top. The sharp edged one is a scraper and goes on the bottom.

Hi I would like to know how to de-restrict my Honda XLR125 1997 R Reg as i want to keep it after passing my test but need a bit more speed.

Sometimes there is a throttle stop. Another approach is to block the cable from inside the carburetor. Since we do not have those kinds of regulations here in the states, it is hard to know for sure on your particular bike. Good luck on your test.

I have three lines coming from the fuel tank two go through the fuel filter and one is not shown where it goes in any parts diagram that I have please help me. There is 5 lines coming off the tank all together. thanks joe

Get a manual. www.motorcyclemanuals.com You have two fuel lines, one to the vacuum, one to the breather, and one to the air box.

Hi,
Have a 1986 yamaha virago 1100. Recently rebuild the carbs, cleaned the main and sub fuel tanks, new fuel filter. Ran fine for about 2 to 300 miles and now has begain to act up. Cranks and runs fine for about 3 to 5 miles then seems when it gets to operating temp it begins as best as I can describe it hesitates or misses on acceleration especially at slower speeds in the higher gears as when your slowing to turn and downshift one or two gears and twist the throttle to accelerate. Unless I back off the throttle and downshift again it continues and occasional a slight backfire . After that I can accelerate and run through the gears normally without any problem. Any ideas or help with this would be greatly appreciated. Thanx. Joe

Run some Yamaha fuel stabilizer in a couple of tanks of gas. If that does not fix the problem, then clean the carbs again.

Dear Sir, I am rebuilding my parents tri-moto 175 I think that it is a 1985 but not sure on the date. I took the top end apart and rebuilt it because the piston rings were fried. When we start it up it still seems to be blowing crankcase oil out of the exhaust. Just wondering if that was a seal and if I have to tear apart the top end again or not. Please put in some input. Thanks for the great site!

You are probably OK. You just have a lot of accumulated oil that needs to burn out of the pipe. If it continues blowing oil for a long time, then you might have other problems.

#1)my bike used to start like a champ. Now it is always tuff to start. My carb has been leaking a lot of gas out of the bottom bowl flow hose .everyone tells me that there is something stuck in the carb but it stops leaking after a few laps then starts again when its back on the stand.....................#2)the last three rides, when I would go and try and start my bike the kick start would be froze up after a few attempts it eventually kicks. Is this signs of a seizing piston???............#3)after finally getting my bike to start by jump starting it, it warmed up then I
put it on the stand. 10 minutes later I kicked it over and GAS was POURING out of the cylinder head breather hose,(on top of the cylinder) every time I would twist the throttle!! I haven’t touched the bike since.....what’s up with this thing???? thanks for your time. aj.

Take the carb apart and clean it. Then set the float level properly and try it again. Yamaha dirt bikes come with great manuals. Read yours.

Sir; My Honda Rancher does not start sometimes. I only get a click out of it. If I put it in gear and rock it, and than shift back into neutral, it will often start. Sometimes I have to do it a couple of times. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I replaced the battery, but it didn't help. Thank you, Clint

It could be stuck brushes in the stator. Or it could also be a bad armature.

I HAVE JUST GOT DONE REBUILDING THE TRANS IN MY 1999 YAMAHA BEAR TRACKER (MIND YOU THIS IS GOING INTO A BRAND NEW BLOCK) AND WHEN I GO TO PUT THE TWO HALF'S OF THE BLOCK BACK TO GETHER THEY GO BACK TOGETHER FINE WITH A LITTLE
PRESSURE APPLIED BY HAND AND THEN THE CRANK IS STIFF AND THE SHIFT DRUM IS TIGHT TRANS SHAFTS ARE OK I THINK THEY SPIN PRITTY GOOD I HAVE THE BALANCER GEAR ALREADY BOLTED ON THE LEFT HAND OF THE BLOCK SO IT CONTACTS WITH THE CRANK GEAR THIS NEW BLOCK ALSO HAS NEW BEARINGS ALL THE WAY THROUGH IT AND I TOOK IT BACK APART AND STILL CANT FIGURE OUT WHAT THE PROBLEM IS PLEASE HELP (WHEN I LOOSEN THE SCREWS FOR THE BLOCK EVERYTHING LOOSENS UP A LITTLE)

You need to be sure that the bearings are settled properly. Sometimes you will need to start it and then the bearings will settle and align the last little amount needed for free movement. And you don’t have to SHOUT.

My starter quit on my Goldwing and after electrical testing, it is my starter. My workshop manuel states that the engine needs to be removed to reinstall the starter to line up the starter's splined shaft with the chain sprocket cogs located in the engine case. Can you share your expertise on reinstalling the starter without dropping the engine(this is a 10 hour job)?

Sorry. It is just like the stator on Goldwings. The engine has to come out.

Being a former Yamaha mechanic I wanted to seek a second opinion on the 2004 Yamaha 350 Warrior Quad. Presently the machine (owned by my neighbor) rattles on the top end. Being under warranty (still is ) we took the machine to the pathetic local Yamaha dealer who then attempted to charge 1.0 hr to adjust a simple two valve ( 87 vintage ) engine. I could go on.. anyway the valve adjustment was needed (less than 10 hours on engine - guess mechanic's don't service out of the box anymore - wait and charge customers after 10 hours) but did nothing to stop the racket. It does sound top end related, perhaps a pit in the value tappet hardness or a cam chain guide defect - it rattles at a constant RPM say 1400 and you can hear surge noise as you accell and decell both with load and no load RPMS. I asked about top end oiling, and cam chain adjuster failure. Upon the refusal of repair on my part the second visit a new cam chain adjuster was supposedly replaced and that did nothing as well. My question is Yamaha's certified mechanic say's this is normal for this motor, they even started one of their floor models to confirm, I say BS.. We have another neighbor who also has a 2000 Warrior and it sounds like I would expect. Since you deal with these motors on a daily basis what can you tell me about the 2004 engine and the valve train, piston tolerance problems, Cam Chain.. was there a recall or does any of this sound familiar ? It's under warranty so I would like Yamaha to do the motor work rather than my tearing it down and finding the suspected problem. Your thoughts,Clint

I would call Yamaha customer relations at 1-800-962-7926 and complain like mad. There should be nothing inherently rattling in that engine. Also no recalls.

I was wondering if there is a special trick on removing a starter from =
my 98 Honda foreman with a 450s engine?

No tricks. Sometimes you have to remove the cover the starter goes into because the have a clip that needs to be removed.

Hi there my name is Rob. I have a Kawasaki 1981 550 L T D and my problem is a clanking noise from the clutch housing side of the engines at low revs and tickover. It does not seem to affect the performance of the motorcycle at all. But I do find it a little worrying. Thanks very much for any help that you can give. Rob

It’s just backlash that is normal for an older high mileage bike. As long as it works and you don’t have excess metal in the oil when you change it, then keep riding.

I have a Honda Fourtrax TRX300X (99) Problem: It won't idle fast enough unless the choke is out a little...and then the rpms begin to race on their own until the choke is completely shut off. With it off it idles too low and dies! What can be the cause?

Turn the idle up. Most have a knob near the bottom of the carb.

I have a 1996 Timberwolf 250 it was running great all day and started missing almost like it was running out of gas. I rebuilt the carb but it still misses backfires at high rpms. What would cause this? Also do you know the valve clearance for this model? I tryed to adjust cam chain slack and it doesn’t feel like its getting tight? Thanks for all you do, KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!!! Emile

.003 on the intake, .005 on the exhaust. Service the air cleaner and install new plug. Make sure the oil does not smell like gas. If it does then change the oil.

I have a Honda Recon that seems to have an issue of when it is cut-off or in some cases cuts-off itself (bad not to idle correctly) then gas leaks out from the small hose that comes off the bottom of the bowl on the carb.. I took the screw/drain-plug/pin out that is in the bottom of the bowl. I am not exactly sure how this pin/screw is supposed to look but it seems to be damaged on the end. I don't believe the floats are stuck because it only seems to leak the gas that is in the bowl itself. I have been trying to find just this screw/pin to see if I could replace that part and it fix the problems I am having. This screw/pin seems to come in a kit that runs around $70 or more..... If the screw/pin is all I need then $70 is little much to spend just to get this screw/pin. I realize that if the o-ring has to be replace that I will more than likely need the kit so that I have the gasket for the bowl and everything else, but as of right now I don't believe that is necessary. Do you have any ideas? (how to fix, where to get the pin, etc.) Thanks. Chris

Put the drain pin back in. Then clean the carbs and set the float level.

Recently bought a used 1100 maxim the previous owner told me that the ignition box was starting to give him problems. I rode it for one evening when it left me on the side of the road. It's a '84. now I don't have any spark as well is it the ignition box or should i be looking at something else thanx for your help. Signed frustrated

This bike is actually a 1982 model. If it turns over but does not have a spark, then the wires to the pickup coil are probably broken (they vibrate and work harden over the years and then break inside the insulation). If it has nothing, then it is a fuse, fusable link, or the main switch.

1998 quad 400 has spark and fuel to cylinder but wont start tries to backfire out exhaust.

Check compression. Should be at least 100psi.

My future son-in-law is letting my daughter drive his '82 Yamaha Maxim 750cc 4 cylinder. He keep it up, oil changed regularly and tuned. She did not ride it most of the summer and a few weeks ago when she did it had no power. Then would not start at all. When he checked the compression all cylinders were down to about 60 pounds. When he pulled off the cylinders all the the rings were "stuck" and were a devil to remove. Cylinders and pistons were checked and in tolerance. He ordered and installed a new set of rings after checking that the pistons and cylinders were in specs. It has been less than a week and it is back doing the same thing and the compression is down around 70 pounds per cylinder like it was before he replaced the rings. The bike has a wet clutch and he says this feels funny, would the clutch breaking up cause crap to get up in the rings and cause them to seize? This really has us baffled as it is happening to all cylinders at the same time. When he pulled the plugs yesterday one is fouled (black) the others is just a nice grey but with the compression down on all cylinders I am sure the rings are stuck again. When he installed the all ring grooves in the pistons were cleaned and dimensions checked, the rings move freely in the grooves. Don

The filter should catch any miscellaneous stuff circulating in the oil. Try running the bike for about 15 minutes with about a half quart of kerosene or solvent in the oil. Then change the oil and test compression again. There could be varnishing on the cylinder walls.

Have done a carb cleaning on my Bayou 220 (1989). It will not start with pull rope when cold, but will from electric start. After it has been started from electric start and run for just a few seconds, it will start very easy with pull rope. Any suggestions? I have the carb needle valve adjustment screw at about 2 1/2 turns, is that correct?

Maybe the choke circuit is partially plugged. Or maybe you are just not pulling hard enough.

How do I adjust the valves on a 2000 TRX 250 Honda Recon?

Set the engine at TDC and adjust both intake and exhaust valve clearances at .002 inch. A book would help you.

I have a 1996 Arctic Cat 454 that I purchased last summer. It started fine during the warmer weather but now that the highs are around 50 it simply won't start without started fluid. It does have a primer pump on it but if I use it even once the machine is flooded. Any idea's? Thanks, Dan

If it has a choke, use the choke full on with no throttle in cold weather.

I have a 350 moto 4 runs good. My wife rode out to the field and back. When I went to park it in the shed I turned the key on and the panel lights went off after about 10 seconds. With this there is no way to start it. I have a new battery I hook up a battery charger this doesn't help the battery, it is full charged. What can I look at? This doesn't have any other way besides pushing it to start. What is shutting this down all at once. Jerry

If it has no light and you are sure the battery is good (load test it at a bike shop, because a battery can show full charge but only be a surface charge that will quickly dim and not turn over the engine), then it is a fuse or the main switch. If it has power but no starter, then it is the starter relay or starter.

Hi there, greetings from Canada! :) My current 1982 XJ650R Seca engine has 52,000km and is getting low in compression (100-105psi each cylinder). I've noticed it is starting to burn some oil and is getting harder to start. I don't have the money to have the engine rebuilt, so I'm considering an engine swap. Will a XJ750 (maxim or seca) engine fit in my 1982 XJ650R Seca chassis without modification? Does it matter what year the XJ750 engine is to fit? Thanks for your time, Mike

I have never seen a modification like this, Mike, so I don’t really know. My gut feeling is that there would need to be extensive modifications to frame and mounts.

I have a 1990 Honda 300 Fourtrax 4x4 that runs great except when going up a steep hill it coughs, sputters, and quits. I notice several drops of gas come out of the vent tubing. I've completely cleaned out the carb, and replaced all the rubber rings. No change. I'm told to adjust the floats, but I don't see where to adjust them, since everything is plastic. Your advice is very much appreciated. Mark

There is a metal tab that you bend to set float level. Hold the carb at a 45 degree angle and bend the tab such that with no pressure on the needle, the float line is parallel with the float bowl gasket surface.

I have 1996 timberwolf the rear axle seems stuck on the right bearing. Do you have any solutions

If everything else is off, put the assembly in a press and press out the axle.

I originally had problems with the float needle leaking. I changed it out to stop the leaking. I adjusted the float according to factory specs. Now the bike will not start unless I bump start it. I checked the spark, none until it is pulled. Once the bike is ran for a few minutes it will restart. Once everything has cooled down, no spark again. I am thinking it is the pick up coil. I, however, cannot find just the pickup coil for sale. Yamaha is very proud of the whole stator assembly. Thank you, Rick

Use an ohm meter to check. The resistance from the source coil brown to black should be 475 ohms +/- 10%. The pulser coil white/green to white/red should be 210 ohms +/- 10%. If both of these check out properly, then it is your CDI box.

I have a gl1100 goldwing with 22000 miles on it. #1 cyl not getting hot like 2.3.4. I switched coils no change. I put timing light on #1wire and it is missing. I also am getting a popping out exhaust on right side. I need to know what to check cdi or sparkys. I put new plugs and wires in. Sometimes it runs fine. I am losing my mind. The carbs have been cleaned and working good it is a spark prob on #1 only what will do that charging sys. good when I start the bike I can hold my hand on #1 exh.pipe but it will get warm not hot. Miss firing on #1 only. Thanks john

Sounds like the pickup coil or low compression.

Dear Sirs, Thanks for your help in advance. When pushing the starter button a loud buzzing sound is heard from the relay??? The starter does not run or engage. Fuse was good, wires appear to be tight and dry, push starting did work. Is the relay bad? Thanks Doug

Most likely it is the relay. But make sure all of the battery cables are tight on both ends. Loose cables can produce the same symptom.

Can you tell me the piston to cylinder clearance for a 1978 Yamaha IT 250? ROBERT

It is .00178 inch or .045mm. To be safe I would use .002 inch.

Hi I have a 125 Tri moto and it wont fire I’m not sure what the problem is but I know I am getting power with a test light from the yellow red wire but nothing from the coil and so on. If you could tell me how to check my stator and all on this bike I would appreciate it.

The resistance readings should be white/red to black 10 ohms +/-10%, and from brown to black 300 ohms +/-10%. If these check out then it is a bad CDI box.

I have a 1999 Kawasaki Lakota. It was not charging over 12 volts. First I tried a voltage regulator and that was not it. Then I replaced the stator. The bike ran fine before that and now I cannot get it to start. It just pops and backfires. I did not go in any further than the stator, could I have screwed up the timing in someway. If not, what else could I have done wrong. Any help you could give will be much appreciated! Brad

If you pulled the flywheel off when you changed the stator, make sure the flywheel key is correct. Also if the stator has the pickup coils on it for the timing, be sure that you are not 180 degrees out on timing.

My dad has a 1998 Yamaha Big Bear 4x4, He installed a new starter and gear that was tore up. When he put it back together it wont catch any of the gears. I think it needs to be timed but am not sure of how to do this. I think that when you put it together it should be in the neutral gear but am not sure why you cant get some of the other gear. I jacked it up and can see the timing marks but not sure what they should be. The Haynes manual is not much help either. Thanks for any help. Rod

No, it does not need to be timed in. There is a starter clutch under the plate that the starter gear goes in. That clutch could have metal pieces from the bad gear in its rollers, preventing proper operation of the starter. Just clean it out completely.

I have a 1999 wolverine 350 atv. Today I took it out for a ride just a little and then cut it off. When i went to start it back up my hand slipped of the start butten and it made the motor back fire but it didn't start. So when I went to start it, it wouldn't even turnover but the starter did make a very strange high pitch sound. So after I pull started it I turned on my lights to see if they worked, but I noticed that when I gave it gas the lights would dim and when it was just at idle they work great. The battery is good, but I think it is the voltage regulator. What do you think?

It sounds like a bad ground. Check all grounds. Does the starter work now? If not, pull the wire off the starter and pull start it. See if the lights still dim. If so, maybe regulator. But also more possibilities.

I was riding down the road on my 98' warrior and it all of the sudden started losing power and died....... now it won't start it's getting spark and gas and turning over just won't start......oh yeah before, it was bogging and back firing every once in a while at high rpm then would clear up for a while then start back........any info would be very helpful......thanx alot, Nick

Put a new plug in. Check for water in the gas. Check compression.

I have a 2001 Yamaha Kodiak. It has been to the shop several times because it won't start. It acts as if it's not getting fuel. A buddy has a 2001 grizzly with the same problem. Do the 2001 Yamaha's have carbeurator problems? Is there anything we can do to prevent these costly trips to the dealerships? Thanx for you time.

I had a 2000 Kodiak. Same as a 2001. Never had any problems. Check your fuel line. It may be pinched somewhere or see if it is routed higher than the carb.

I recently purchased a Yoshimura big bore piston kit #4501 (new) but it did not include the head gasket. Stock bore on the 750 is 65mm and the kit gives 68mm (820cc). I have a top end gasket kit for the 750. As far as I know, my options are either a custom copper gasket or a head gasket for a 94+ XJ900S Diversion (Eur) that has a 68.5mm bore. Online parts locators have been fruitless. Thanks in advance for any help you can give.

I would check with the place you bought the kit. A gasket should be part a kit, I would think. If that does not work, then I would go with the copper gasket.

I need to find out what year this bottom end is its for a Yamaha Blaster 2XJ-003967 please let me know asap thanxz. Michelle

1988, Michelle.

How do you remove the baffles out of the exhaust pipes?? Thanks you.

The simple answer is drill holes. But you will likely screw up the running of your bike, and it will not sound good like you think it will. The best approach is aftermarket pipes.

Mr. Mechanic, I had a mechanic look at my chain tensioners on my 83 VF 750 Honda Magna. The reason being I had what I thought was a cam chain noise. As it turned out everything was acceptable. Now with everything reassembeled and the valves adjusted there is now another noise which appears to be in the crank area. Also when we turn the crank by hand, with the front valve cover off, we see the chain tighten and then go slack between the cam sprockets. Is this an installation problem or a stretched chain? The engine has 43,000 miles on it. Thanks

They were put together wrong.

I have a 1981 Yamaha 650 Maxim. Ever since I got it, occasionally slips from second gear to neutral. Today, while riding, I was unable to get the bike out of first gear. When I got home and put the bike up on the center stand, I was able to move through all the gears fine. What could the problem be and possible solutions. Thanks, JR.

There is a lot of junk in the oil. Add a half quart of kerosene to the oil and run it on the center stand for around 15 minutes, going through the gears. Then drain the oil, refill it with new oil and filter, and ride as usual.

I sure hope you can HELP. I bought a used 2001 Suzuki Marauder and after I got it realized that it doesn't idle right .I cleaned the carbs ,when I got into them I found a ton of water and rust in them. I thought every thing would be better but not yet.The problem I'm still having is that when I start it cold and choke it ,it still only runs on the front cylinder ,after it starts warming up and I push the chock in part way the rear cylinder starts poping thru the pipes and finally comes to life.I replaced the spark plugs ,they were both black ,the rear was the worst. I cleaned the rear carb again but it didn't help. I sure would appreciate some advice before I can't say it..Thanks for any help. Randy

Clean the tank good. That is where the junk has to come from. Then re-clean the rear carb.

I have a 1995 Honda Goldwing. Just before putting it away for the winter, I started the bike and the headlight went out. I restarted the bike, and it went on. When the key is turned to the "on" position, the headlight goes on every time. Now it is hit-and-miss, whether the light will turn on after the starter kicks in. It seems like it might be a relay, but I'm not sure. If it is a relay, where is the relay located? Thank you in advance for any help you may give me. Best Regards, Terry

The problem is your starter switch. When you start the bike, the switch turns the headlight off. When you release the switch after the engine fires, it reconnects the headlight. If the switch is dirty or the grease is gone, then it will not move all the way out and thus not reconnect the headlight circuit. Just take it apart and clean the contacts. Put a layer of white grease on the parts that slide.

My son has a Kawasaki Ninja 700 and we are keeping it for him while he is out to sea (in the navy) and now we are having trouble with the battery and I tried to get to it by taking off the seat. 1st off is that where the battery is located and 2nd how in the world do you get the seat off. I have had 3 bike myself and this is the first for me I have never had this problem before. Claude

You did not mention the year. Things change from year to year. Some are held by bolts under the edge of the seat. Others have key switches in locations from under the seat to around in back of the bike. Some have seat latches that are part of a helmet lock.

I need to know how to set the timing on a 1985 honda 125 fourwheeler if u have any idea please

Get a timing light. Open the upper plug on the left side of the engine. Remove the left cam cover. You will see a pickup coil that you can move to adjust timing. Hook up the timing light, start the engine and shine the timing light into the hole on the left side of the engine. You will see the timing mark in the hole. Adjust the pickup coil until the timing mark is aligned with the reference mark.

Can you tell me how to adjust valves on a honda trx250?

Remove the tank. Set the engine at TDC. Remove the caps over the valves. Set both intake and exhaust at .002. When you remove the caps, the tappets should have a little play. If not then turn the engine through 360 degrees to TDC again. Now there should be a little play.

I have a 1996 Kawasaki Vulcan VN 800A. I was wondering where I could get an extended clutch cable. I am putting ape hanger bars on it and I am having trouble finding the right size cable. Any help would be nice.

Try a small independent shop. They usually can make one. Or try a cart shop that makes cables.

I just put straight pipes on my '93 Suzuki 1400. I live in Florida and on highway runs, the bike seems to get hot. It gets difficult to shift gears. Could you tell me how to adjust the carbs? Thanks. R.D.

To fix the carbs, you will need to install a jet kit. You are running too lean. For the shifting problem, use a good quality motorcycle-specific oil. It has different shear properties than automotive oil, and is designed for proper gear and clutch operation in all conditions.

Hello; I am the original owner of a 1984 GL1200 Goldwang Aspencade. I am experiencing a #3 cylider not firing. I have replaced the wires, plugs, boots, resistors and performed a compression check. The spark plug will fire when removed from the cylinder and the spark will jump a 3/8" spark plug tester gap. I tried swapping plug wires (#1 & 3) from one side to the other (#1 to #2 coil) and found that the problem transferred to the #4 cylinder. I then replaced both coils. That did not correct the problem. So I then swapped the primary leads from the CDI Ignitor into the coils (#1 to #2 and #2 to #1). Again, the problem transferred. My question is: Could the Ignitor box being defective cause just one cylinder to miss? (My local dealer tells me that if the cdi was bad, the bike would not start at all). I noticed that there are two wires, each coming from a separate transistor inside the cdi leading to a separate coil. If one of those transistors is weak or fails, could that be enough to prevent the coil from having enough voltage to fire just one plug while under compression? What about the pulse generator advancer being the cause??? I already wasted $190 on coils and am very apprehensive is spending another $360 for a probable bad cdi. I can't think of what else it could possibly be. My battery is new and putting out a solid 14.8 volts at 3500 rpm. Please advise as I am completely perplexed at this point. Sincerely, Barry

What about the pickup coils, or the triggers. If the CDI box is bad, then there will usually be no fire, so yours is probably good. Also, there are two pickup coils…one could be bad.

Hello, I have recently purchased a 1978 goldwing. It seems to run fine and smooth until about the 3000 rpm range, and then fine after about 3500-4000 range. When I reach just a little over 3000, like going through normal shifting, it kind of backs off power, doesn't want to go past that rpm, and I get some back firing at times. I can turn the throttle enough and it will eventually go past it and pick up the rpms, but right in that range it doesn't want to run right. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you, Steve

It sounds like a sticking mechanical advance. If the bike has points, then the advance will be behind the points.

They do not make a carb kit, per se, but you can get everything you need. Clean the jets with a small wire from a wire brush. Then purchase and install the needle and seat, float bowl gasket, and choke plunger. Should be like new.

My son jumped my honda and bent my frame. If you get back and look at it it sets low on the right side and that is the side he came down on. Took it to a body shop and they straightened it so they said, but it is not right. You can pick the left rear tire off the ground with very little effort. Do you have any ideas on what I should do short of buying another frame. And a new frame will hurt my pocket. And do you know any salvage yards for atv's where I might find a used frame. I live in south western Pa.Any help will be greatly appriciated Dave

It is hard to find a frame straightener these days…a liability question. Another metal shop may be able to do some good. They need gauges and bending jigs, etc. You might want to try some straightening yourself. Step back and look at it and figure ways to straighten it. The first one I did came out good, but we are in New Mexico. Find an issue of Cycle News, a weekly publication. They have ads in there for salvage yards across the country.

hi . hope u can help me out . my ? is i have a 2004 honda rancher at . how do u adjust the valves and what r the valve specs. and after being adjusted how often then should they be adjusted? would i be possible for u to email me a diagrame with instruction on adjusting the valves for that bike thank u

See the other responses about adjusting valves. Then read your owners manual. It is beyond the scope of this site to send out diagrams. After all, there are literally hundreds of models out there.

Hey Guys, Great info site! This is my first time asking a question that wasn't already posted. I'm working on a 900 Triumph that came to my shop a few weeks ago. I've been trying to get it rideable. Some one had it jetted for power and it fouls plugs out within minutes. I called Triumph and got the original specs for the jets and needle settings. I had to order the jets. I now have the jets in and the needles set to stock. But I'm still running extremely rich. I rode it around a bit and it is better than it was. But just as soon as I get past 1/3 throttle it jumps like a drag bike! I know I'm missing something but just can't think of it. I don't have a manual for this bike, and would like to avoid buying one if I can. Thanks in advance, James

If it seems to run good past a third throttle, I would think it is your fuel screws or partially blocked pilot circuit in the carbs.

I have a 85 GL1200 that makes a clunk noise when you first strart off from a dead stop and after you roll for about a foot there is a second clunk. We checked the rear wheel and drive shaft units and they seem to be fine. The local Honda dealers have no idea with out removing the engine and looking inside. Cant seem to find anyone who has experienced this problem. Bike rides and handles fine. Any suggestions? Clutch, final drive shaft,
thanks. Ed

The first clunk might be a loud torque absorber in the engine. It is a kind of spring loaded piece in the engine to smooth out initial torque when starting out. The second clunk might be back lash or noise from wear in the spline carrier in the rear wheel.

We have a LT80 quad. It starts and goes along really slow at full throttle. The engine screams but does not go hardly anywhere. We have changed the bearings in the automatic clutch. Can you help? Please

The primary clutch is not closing or the belt is shot.

Hi. Hope you can help me out with my ATV. I bought it used but in good condition from a guy I know. It's an 86 TRX 350 4x4 He said they did a top end job on it not that long ago. It was running rough and smoking pretty badly. I cleaned and rebuilt the carb. This helped it run better but it's developed a couple of annoying habits. After it's been running a while the idle goes up and stays up until you blip the throttle. It'll do this while driving and sometimes you can't change gears because of the high idle condition. Second while riding it just stalls out. You can restart it with no problem but the minute you try to change gears it stalls just like someone cut the ignition. It's do this a few times then it'll be fine. Any suggestions?

Since there was a top end job done and a carb rebuild, check around the intake area for an air leak. See the archives for ways to determine if there are leaks.

I have a Suzuki DRZ 250 that I just purchased. I like the bike but it won't rev down to an idle well. It seems to race before coming down. I've tried adjusting the front screw on the bottom front of the carb but that just seems to make it run rich or lean. I thoroughly cleaned the carb and took out the jets and cleaned them all but still can't find the problem. I also looked for an air leak but couldn't find anything. When I lower the idle way down,(past the point of an idle so it stalls) the bike runs like it should when traveling and comes back down fine but the there is no idle. How can I have the bike come down to a normal idle without having it rev first? Also, after a couple days I was told by a friend that it could be an air leak. I couldn't find anything. I did however find a way to bring it down to an idle quick but doesn't have the power it should. I covered one of the air jets on the back of the carburetor with my finger and it does idle down but when I try to run it this way, it lacks the upper end power. Any suggestions? Thanks, Doug

It sounds like the pilot circuit is too lean. Try going up a size on the pilot jet.

How may I check the old rectifier with a volt-ohm meter to see if it works? New rectifiers are too expensive, so looked for used one on the net. I found a couple but they only have three plates and three wires. Mine has four plates and four wires, one of the wires is green and located on the end of the rectifier, it connects to ground or negative frame connector. May I use the three wire rectifier? Thanks Ron

I don’t know whether a three wire rectifier will work. You can check your rectifier with an ohm meter. It will show a short circuit (0 ohms) one way and an open circuit (infinite ohms) the other way.

Bike set for a year, recently got it running, had carb cleaned and tank, runs good at high rpms, but coming out of high rpms backfires (loud popping). Could this be timing problem? Also air box blows air back. List of aftermarket parts: White Bros. pipe and exhaust, carb jets, air filter, and air box (K&N)do you know of any manuals that can help me with timing ? THANK YOU KEITH ST. AUGUSTINE, FLA.

You need to clean the carb again. Be sure to run a wire from a wire brush through the pilot jet.

Hi. I have a 1980 Kawasaki KDX 400a two stroke. The bike is in nice shape and has good compression but has a problem. It runs real well off of first gear and stands right up and goes right up to a full wind, However, when I shift into second gear it doesn't respond as well.. It bogs and never really gets up to a full wind. It doesn't bog terribly, just enough so it won't go to full power before I shift to the next gear. It doesn't run rough but just lacks the response and power. It also does the same in 3rd 4th and 5th gear. I've adjusted the needle height, and it seems to run best when the needle is all the way down and the clip is at the top. If I proceed to move the needle down, the bike runs rough. It also starts a bit hard cold but once it is warm, it starts right up. Any advise? Thanks, Doug

Drop the pilot jet a size or two so that you have needle adjustability again. Then set the needle for best performance. When cold use the choke full on, and do not use any throttle.

Honda FourTrax has no 1st or 2nd gear but 3ed 4th and 5th work. So does reverse what do you think is wrong?

It probably needs to come apart to diagnose the problem. Does it shift into neutral? If it does, then the problem is inside the gear box. If not, then the problem might be found under the clutch cover.

Hi, I have a manual for this old 3 wheeler of mine, yet it doesn't show or give any instructions on my need. Can someone instruct me on how to remove the front axle so I can replace the wheel bearings? Honda 200 S,1986 ATC 3Wheeler. Thanks Greatly.

You should be able to remove the nut and just pull it out. But if it is rusted then you have a real bear of a problem. Penetrating oil, heat, force, etc.

Mr. Mechanic, I just bought a 2001 Suzuki Intruder 1400 with Vance & Hines pipes on it. They sound good but I only get 28 mpg. What can I do to get better gas mileage? Could it just need carb adjustments? Thanks, Joe

Chances are that it was rejetted to match the free flow pipes. If the bike runs good, then I would live with it. You can fine tune the carb mixture by using a CO measuring machine. All the shops have one.

Yes, I have a 1982 Honda atc200 3-wheeler. This 3-wheeler won't crank. I put a new spark plug and it fires good, but it don't want to crank. Carburetor seems to be in great condition. A friend of mines say it might the timing, and told me to contact you all. So, can you send me some more ideas of what the problem is because I want this 3-wheeler to be fixed before hunting season start.

If you have gas and you have spark, then it is probably low compression. It would be likely a machine of that age would need a top end rebuild.

I HAVE A 1997 YAMAHA WARRIOR IT WONTS TO CUT OUT AT HIGH SPEEDS UP AROUND 4th and 5th IT HAS A NEW PLUG I WAS WONDERING IF YOU MIGHT GIVE ME A CLUE AF WHAT IT MIGHT BE.

Change the main jet to a size smaller. If it still does it, then go smaller still. And don’t shout (all caps).

Can u give me the valve lash settings for this bike thanks ray

.003 intake, .005 exhaust. Doesn’t Kawasaki furnish owners manuals with its machines?

The mechanic is going to stop answering questions all in caps. Be warned. You need to clean the carb again and set the float level. You may need a new needle and jet.

Hello, I have a 1982 Honda VF 750s. When the engine gets (very) warm it drops dead as soon as I use the clutch. Any idea? Greets, Luc

Need more information here, Luc. Does it die from the clutch grabbing? Or does the engine die when you pull in the clutch? If the engine dies when you let the clutch out, it is likely the side stand switch sticking, or a switch in the neutral interlock circuit malfunctioning.

I have a 98 300ex that I bought which the valve stem had broken and shattered the piston, so I had to split the crankcase to remove all of the pieces of piston. I took the transmission apart to get all the pieces underneath it and that is my problem. When I got it back together the engine runs great but it is sometimes hard to hit second gear and when it does go it shifts through the other gears fine except when you rev 4th it slips out. I put it back together just like the manual showed but the only thing i wasn't sure about was the direction of the bevels on the thrust washers. Could this cause my problem? Thanks in advance.

It sounds like there is a shim in wrong.

I've just purchased this bike. It's K&N Air Filters, Re-jetted and Hard Krome Exhast already installed. The bike has 19,000 miles. It is cutting out when I'm in the upper RPM's. I need to know what the Valve Clearances need to be. Or is there something else that I need to look into. I just changed out the spark plugs (.036 gap) Any suggestions on your part would be greatly appreciated. Thank-you, Joe

You don’t need to check the valves. Look at the exhaust pipes. Are they sooty black black? That means you are running too rich and need to drop the jets a size.

Hello. I recently just purchased a 2003 Honda VTX 1300s motorcycle. This is the first time for me on a motorcycle and I made the silly and foolish mistake of riding with the choke half-way out for about three weeks or so. This was riding the bike about 3 times a week or so for 3 weeks. I took the bike back to the dealer that I purchased it at, and they drained the oil and replaced with fresh oil and new oil filter. They also replaced two of the four spark plugs (my bike has two spark plugs per cylinder). They said the oil smelled of gas and the two spark plugs were sooted up. As I was riding the bike home it seemed to ride much better. The dealer also told me that he adjusted the idle speed within proper range. Now, two days later I started up the bike in high 30s temperatures outside. I'm thinking that I may have not warmed the engine up long enough. With me being afraid of leaving the choke out too long now, I pushed it back in only after about 30 seconds of fast idle. I proceeded to ride the bike in cold weather and especially in 1st or 2nd gear the bike hesitated when first giving it throttle. Then it would kick it real quick like after a couple second delay or so. This is similar to what the bike was doing before I took it back to the dealer. My question is... Do you think this is just a matter of me not letting the bike warm up long enough or do you think there could be something wrong with the carburetion? Thanks for taking the time, Alex

Just warm it up. Bikes are set very lean to meet emission standards, so they do not run well without the choke until they are fully warmed up. Put a red flag or something on the choke so you will remember to shut it off when the bike is warm.

Hi. Have a 97 Yamaha Blaster ATV. Ran fine for first 4 months. Cleaned air filter with vacuum cleaner only (no oil) yesterday. Rode today and it revs up to high speed with little or no throttle especially when clutch is in (but seems to do it also a little when just riding in gear). Hard for me to believe me vacuuming the air cleaner did this, but please advise. Thanks. Mark (PS: checked throttle for kinks, looks ok.)

Service the filter by first cleaning it in air filter cleaner (your bike shop). Then wash it out with dish soap. Wash that all out and let the filter dry. Then re-oil with air filter oil (wet, but not dripping). If that does not solve the problem, then you have to clean the carburetor.

My 650 has 500 miles easy riding, it has started backfiring and sputtering through the exhaust unless I set the choke about half way. When I do this, it will run great at normal speeds but will not idle, "dies". Do I have a carburetor problem? Thanks in advance, Ben.

You need to clean the pilot jet (see archives). If you use a metal gas can, it could have rust inside that is getting into the carburetor.

Got a strange problem that was occasional now permanent. I was having difficulty starting the ATV but noticed that when I slid the off-on-off switch on the left handlebar control back and forth (while trying to start it) it would run. So I removed the switch and cleaned the contacts. Seemed good for a while but then it started happening again (the not starting). The only way I could get it to start and then run was to continuously slide the off-on-off switch from side to side (obviously it didn't run well this way but that is the only way to keep it running). So then I decided to just solder the wires together to complete the circuit just as the switch does but it won't run. Unsoldered the wires and put it all back as it was. Seems like it needs the pulse of the on-off-on-off-on-off motion to run. The only thing I can think of is a bad CDI box but I'd rather not buy one just to see if that's it. Any ideas? Dave

I have seen a CDI box do that. Try unplugging the CDI box and plugging it back in again. If that causes spark, then you have a bad box. If not, then it is likely the stator. You can check that with an ohm meter (see the archives for instructions) before replacing it.

The bike got connected to a 20 amp battery charger with the key on motor not running. One wire got burnt a common ground wire that goes to the ignition coil. That wire has been replaced however, it has no spark to the plug. I have checked the (pick-up coil) ohms range is (.171-.209) my reading is (.384). (source coil) ohm range (.270-.330) my reading (.241). I checked the ignition coil also the orange lead that comes from the CDI unit to the base of the coil should read between (.36-.48) my reading no resistance. The secondary coil resistance base to plug lead should be between (5.44-7.36) my reading (2.318). Now I ordered a new ignition coil however, I do not believe this is the problem. When the key is turned on and when the motor is being turned over shouldn't there be 12 volts to the orange lead, that is from the CDI to the ignition coil? With these readings would you agree that the problem is the CDI. Your assistance would be much appreciated.

If the readings are out of spec then the units are bad and need to be replaced. There is no voltage reading out of the coil wire. You may end up replacing the whole CDI unit to get the machine to run.

I have a 1988 Honda Fourtrax I have gotten it running and re done all the brakes .I have figured out every thing this far except for, on top of the tank there is a valve that says on and off. I know that it is not the petcock so is it a vent that you can turn on and off? Second I have cleaned the carb very well and as long as the choke is on just a slight amount it will run and idle perfect but when you turn off the choke it goes dead. What's up with this? Last exactly where is the oil filter at so that I can change it. It doesn't jump out at me like it does on my motorcycle.

First question is yes that is a vent. Next, you still have a clogged pilot circuit. See archives on how to clean that jet. The air cleaner on most ATVs is on the right cover and it is triangular and has three screws.

My eleven year old grandson has a Suzuki lt80 which has been sitting for two years. Removed and cleaned carb. Machine now runs fine but will not idle. What could be the problem? Thanks, Wendell

First question is yes that is a vent. Next, you still have a clogged pilot circuit. See archives on how to clean that jet. The air cleaner on most ATVs is on the right cover and it is triangular and has three screws.

Hey, I recently bought a 2003 Yamaha R6, but when I took it to get it's first scheduled maintenance, the mechanic didn't screw the oil drain plug back in tight enough. Needless to say about 20 miles down the highway it came off, my oil came out, and my engine became seized. They fixed it for free, but a week or 2 later the engine started making noise (sounded like a >ball bearing in a paint can) and it went back to the shop for them to fix it again. Now I don't know what the deal is with the oil/engine/performance of my bike. But the display reads an engine error code of 19. Could you help me out here. And yes, I know I got screwed by the shop. That's a whole other story. josh

Error code 19 indicates a malfunctioning side stand switch or a broken wire in that circuit. We are a Yamaha shop. If the bike still needs fixing, they are obligated to fix it. Or to give you a new bike. Or to give you your money back. Otherwise you might try the Attorney General’s Office with a detailed complaint.

Hello Mechanic: I own a 2002 Ural 750cc sidecar rig. On a short trip the engine started making a loud non-metallic growling/whirring sound whenever I slowed down or stopped for a traffic signal and allowed the engine speed to drop below 2000 rpm. When the motor's speed went back above 2000 rpm the sound completely disappeared. At all times the engine pulled normally, all electrics (headlight, signals, dash lights) acted normally. When I reached home I turned off the ignition and tried to restart the bike but it failed to start; actually when I turned the key NOTHING happened. However, the ignition light on the dash remained on even when I turned the ignition switch off and removed the key. My mechanic cannot seem to diagnose the problem. He (and Ural) suspected an alternator problem or alternator drive gear problem. Inspection of the alternator drive gear showed normal wear. Replacing the regulator did not help. Any suggestions? Thanks. Mark Kami Prescott, AZ

The lights remaining on indicate that something is burned. See if any wiring insulation smells burned. Check the stator (alternator) by measuring with a meter set on the 50vac range. Measuring across any two of the three wires (usually white or yellow) you should get 18.5 volts for all three combinations of two wires. If you get this the stator is good. Also check your oil for burning by giving it the sniff test. Maybe it is not cooling properly.

For the last two years, ever since I purchased this motorcycle, it runs fine except one thing: The battery always slowly drains, and almost never starts in the morning (when it's cooler), only in the afternoons. We have changed the battery three times, taken it into our local Yamaha and Kawasaki dealer, but they can not find the problem. I have tried trickle charging it, I have paid a fair amount for mechanics to look at the electrical, but they have only said, "It's the battery. You need a new one." But after the third battery in two years, I'm feeling very frustrated, especially when I can never use it in the morning (here in New Mexico, you can ride mostly all year round). What do you recommend?

They are not looking hard enough. There has to be a drain on the battery. Maybe a bad brake light switch, a wire grounding out, or maybe a bad ground. We had a Virago that had a broken wire in the main wiring harness that intermittently shorted to ground. It would not do it all the time, only when the bars were turned in a certain direction. Sometimes they are hard to trace, but you need to do it.

I have a 1982 Virago 750. I believe that I have checked everything that I can electrically and I know that I have the carbs completely clean. The bike will start with choke as expected but I cannot get any consistent running from the bike. I can get the engine to warm up and get the rpm up to about 2,500 to 3,500 and the engine sounds good. As I let it idle back down it spits and sputters ( and back fires) and I can hear the mixture control valve gulp for air ( or what ever it does?? ). I am convinced that I have a bad CDI unit from other sites that I have been reading and other owners I have talked to (by email over the net). How can I check my CDI? The cost of a new one is high from $275 to $400. I don't want to buy a new one then discover that I'm wrong. Any suggestions? Thanks, Lou.

The XV750 had a problem with the side stand switch. Try bypassing that and see if it fixes the problem. If it does not, take it to a Yamaha shop. They can put a new CDI box on in a few minutes. If it fixes the problem, fine. If it does not, they may charge you for a little time, but not for the CDI box.

I just bought an Suzuki LT80. The bike was preowned. Im having trouble starting it. The owner said the bike has been sitting for a long time. I tried jumping the bike, still no start. The isn't making any sounds. Do you have any suggestions?

Please, please read the archives before you submit questions. This one has been answered about a dozen times. When a bike has been sitting for a long time, you need to clean the carbs and the tank.

I have straight pipes on a 1975 FXE Superglide, and I need to Re-Jet a Bendix carburetor. How will I know what size jet to install.

If it is running rich, I would purchase the next three smaller size jets. Try the first smaller, then the next, and finally the third. The objective is to use the one that produces a tan color on the plugs.

I Have a 1999 Bear Tracker I had a new block with new bearings and new transmission and all new clutch parts put in this motor I reused the head and cylinder but had the cylinder bored out with new rings and piston. I had a dealer do the work and when I go to change the oil it looks like there is tiny tiny pieces of metal in the oil. So I took out the oil filter and if I look in the grooves of the filter I can see little metal pieces. What I am trying to find out is this normal like break in stuff for all the new parts. it seems to run fine no problem at all or could it be from the new transmission bears or one of the two clutch's please help spent a lot of money not to through it down the drain Thanks alot Christine

It is normal and will disappear in a few oil changes.

I just purchased a 1986 kawasaki 300 Bayou that was stored for a while. It had been running good for the first few days, and then sluggish and now the problem is that lots of fuel started flowing out of the drain tube (while on and off) and into the air filter box/assembly. I took the carb off and found that the top diaphragm does not fit into the groove provided (TooBig). Could it be that the last person that worked on it put on one too big? Or what else could be the problem? Thanks in advance Charles

What they did was leave the diaphragm in when they cleaned the carb. The carb cleaner attacked the diaphragm, making it swell. Pretty bone-head move I’d say. Clean the carb, set the float level, and buy a new diaphragm.

I have a slight oil leak. It is on the right hand side at the base of the rear cylinder. It might be coming from the push rod tube. Any ideas?

Make sure it is not just running down the tube from the top. We had one where the intake manifold was not tight.

If the temperature outside is above 55 or 60 my Bayou 220 will start cutting out if I get it hot by driving a technical and slow trail or climbing a long hill etc.. I've tried all the obvious stuff. My guess would be electrical. Does this sound like the cdi box?

Not the CDI box. Just change the main jet to a smaller size.

I need to know what the specs. for the pickup, main and stator coils are for a 1997 Yamaha Warrior. It was running and died. I need to know in ohms to check with a meter. Thank you Kevin

Source coil is W/G to RED 300 ohms. Pulser coil is Y to (not sure what color) 190 ohms. All resistances should be within +/-10%.

I was referred to your site by a few of my friends. I have a 1982 Honda V45 Magna VF750 that was running great 4 months ago, but now only cranks and wont kick over. I completely emptied the gas tank and filled with new gas. I installed 4 new spark plugs, new air filter, and the fuel filter is perfect. Fuel is getting to the carbs, I have spark, and it is getting air, but it still just cranks without starting. Any ideas on what might be the problem?

Try spraying starter fluid into the air box. Make sure the plugs are dry and clean before trying this. If it starts, then the problem is in the carbs.

Sounds like a loose wire or a broken spring in the shift switch.

I have a 1971 Yamaha DT1 that I'm restoring. I had the 2 screws that hold the "source coil" to the backing plate in the magneto come out & they absolutely shredded everything! I've got all new coils (1 source, 2 lighting), new points/condenser, but absolutely no way to figure out how to wire it. I've not seen any manuals that give this specific information. HELP! Thanks! Jeff Gick

Sorry it took a while on this. OK, with the stator in front of you with the points straight up, lighting coil with 4 wires straight down, lighting coil with 2 wires to the right, the source to the left with 2 wires with fine windings, condenser between left source and lighting coil straight down. Coil straight down with 4 wires, the wire on the left next to condenser goes under condenser plate turns to green wire up to harness. Right side down coil, the tab on the right side that the copper wire from the coil comes out to, solder yellow wire to it and it goes up to harness. Right side down coil the black turns to white and goes up to the harness. Right side down coil brown wire that comes out upper side goes to the tab on the right coil that the copper wire from the coil comes out to, solder. Right side down coil the other brown wire that comes out lower side, goes to the wire on the right coil that comes out of the coil next to the points. Right coil wire that comes out by the down coil goes to the wire that comes out of the left coil next to the points. Left coil wire that comes out next to the condenser, goes to the condenser. Run a blue wire from the condenser to the points. Run 2 Black wires from the condenser to your harness, 1 to the coil the other to check timing. I hope this helps you.

Sir, using this machine during the winter for snow removal from a good sized driveway is simply murder on my hand and arm. As you may know the reverse shift lever is a tiny thing mounted low on the left side of the engine case. You must pull up on a button on the bottom side of the handle and then move the lever forward. Every time and many, many times I must shift into reverse. Doing this requires banging the knuckles of my left hand into the fender over and over again. As a result today I have a very swollen hand. Is there an accessory offered that situates the reverse lever to a more comfortable situation? If it is obvious to me that there could be a lever fabricated to resolve this difficulty, I would suppose that someone else has already capitalized on it and voila! my problem is solved if I can find out who that someone is. Do you know of any such reverse lever extension for a 98 Yamaha Timberwolf 4x4? I checked the 4 archives that you provide and saw nothing on this particular problem. Your help is greatly appreciated, though I know it is not exactly what your mechanic help site is necessarily designed for. Many thanks in advance, Craig

Never have we heard of such a device. But then we do not seem to have the same problem shifting our Timberwolf and Grizzly as you do.

I have a ATC Honda 70, it is staying in neutral and when I try to shift into gear it won't do anything. Do you have any suggestions for this problem? Thanks, Ronnie

Probably you need a new clutch.

Greetings, and thanks for at least having such an informative, helpful site. Enough with the brown-nosing: I have completely rebuilt this ex-submarine and cannot get the flywheel installation right. The original woodruff key was initially used until it sheared on the third start (third use of the electric starter). In a pinch, I went to the local hardware store to pick up an assortment of keys. After shearing one of these on the second electric start I chose to go with OEM units, cleaning the not-so-local dealer out of 11. Well, it didn't shear this time, but the flywheel now chooses to free itself, then magnetize itself to the stator. The manual is rather vague concerning installation, telling the tech to clean the tapered surface, and apply loctite to the bronze washer between flywheel and starter gear. Before I put a round in this beast or buy an overpriced flywheel, which I'm not convinced will solve the problem, I ask you for any suggestions. I must also note that flywheel installation on this particular Kawi is similar to pulling teeth without anastesia, of which I have also unfortunately experienced. Side note: original key install before shear, I tried loctite, and waited a day for it to cure. To recap that, the key broke but the flywheel "stayed" in that it did not magnetize to stator. Sorry for lengthy email, just wanted you to have ample info. thanks in advance for your response Dave

First off make sure the key goes all the way in the key slot. Then get some valve lapping compound and lap the flywheel to the crank shaft until it is grey every where. Then use an air impact wrench to put it on. Thanks

I have a 1989 Kawasaki Mojave and it recently quit running. It will start but does not react to the throttle and slowly dies. I noticed that gas is leaking from my air box. I have no idea what to do!

Clean the carb (see many instructions in the archives), replace the oil, and put in new gas.

I have a 2000 Honda 300ex. It sputters at slow speeds I have replaced the plug, cleaned the air filter, adjusted the idle to where it would finally idle on its own. It runs fine at high speeds, but at slow speed it sputters and jerks. The carb shoots fuel I looked in it and saw it. When I goose the gas at idle it will choke the motor. I figured it was something in the carb, but not for sure. Was wanting to see what you thought about it. Thanks, Nick

If it ran fine before, then pull the float bowl on the carb and clean the jets (see Archives). Set your fuel screw at 2.5 to 3 turns out.

Hi I just rebuilt the top end on my KX125 and got it sleeved. I've only rode it for 6 hours and it developed a small score mark from the top of the exhaust bridge to where the head bolts on and has also excessive powervalve play and was wondering if there is any way to fix the problem without having to rebuilt it if the problem occurs again thanks

Don’t worry about the scoring if the bike runs ok. That is quite common with Wisco pistons and steel cylinders. For the power valve, check each and replace any bad ones.

I'm going to replace my rear tire soon. How hard is it to replace the drivebelt? Tank you

Very difficult. You have to remove the swing arm. Take it to a dealer.

Hi, I have a 97 Suzuki Marauder, and the turn signals on the right side only have stopped working. The running light comes on but the blinker does not flash. What could cause this? Thanks

It has to be bad ground, bad bulb, or loose wire. Check for all three.

I have a 1999 Yamaha Wolverine that backfires when started. If you put it in gear and give it gas under load it just sits. After it warms up it works ok. I have checked the coil, sparkplug wire, and cap for the proper resistance. I had the carb cleaned and set the air fuel mixture screw to two turns out. The gas and sparkplug have been replaced and I have verified that we are getting a constant spark. How do I test the CDI unit? Could it be a stuck valve or the piston ring? I’m not sure where to go from here.

Make sure the parking brake cable is adjusted properly. Also check to be sure there are no leaks around the exhaust manifold or header.

Hi, I have a 1998 CR 250R, my problem is on the first start of the day when the engine is cold; it will not fire without a small shot of ether. After it has fired up, no problems the rest of the day, fires on first of kick every time, and it idles perfect and runs excellent. I have tried different gas from 87 octane to 110 octane using Maxima Castor 927. I also pulled the carburetor and cleaned all jets. Other then that, I don't know were to start with this one. Thanks for any help. Tom

Always start cold with full choke and no throttle. If this does not enable quick starting, then the choke hole in the float bowl is plugged.

I can not figure how to remove the crab bank and air box on a Yamaha Maxim X...the only way I see to do it is by taking the whole engine off the bike.

I assume you mean carbs. Pull the bolts out of the airbox so it will slide back. Then the carbs will just have enough room to come out. But it is a pain, I agree.

I am wiring a winch up on my quad and I want to connect it to the fuse block so the winch will only work when to ignation is turned on. Could you tell me what fuse to connect it to and where it is located? A diagram would be helpful. Thanks, Brian

Connect the little red wire from the winch relay to the light brown wire of the key switch.

Hello, I recently changed the oil and cleaned the oil filter in my Honda TRX250X. Afterward, when I tried to start it, it sputtered and died twice. I have no spark now. There is no spark getting to the coil, but it fires one time in about 20 kicks. I put in 1 1/2 quarts of oil, but there was oil way over on the dipstick. Could I somehow have gotten oil somewhere in the engine that would ground out the stator or did this just conveniently happen at the oil change? Thanks Danny Crabtree Kentucky

First make sure that you did not pinch a wire somewhere in your efforts. If everything looks ok, it could be your CDI box.

I have a 2000 Yamaha R6 and both keys are lost. I asked the dealer and they said either bring in the bike or bring in the ignition switch and they will get the keys for it. I looked and can't figure out how to remove the ignition switch. Any help would be great Thanks Brian

There are two bolts upside down under the clamp that you remove. Or you can load up the bike and take it in.

I am having to continually to adjust the valves on this Machine. I have been told they are known for needing to be adjusted alot but is 2 to 3 times a year normal. And do you know of any mods for the motor that can give it a little more umph....

The valves should stay in adjustment after a couple of adjustments. Unless you are riding it a great deal. For more power, get a larger machine.

I recently purchased this 1993 ATV from a friend. It had been sitting up for about a year and so I removed the carburetor and completely disassembled and cleaned it. There was a good bit of gook in the bowl. Once I reassembled it, I set the pilot air screw to what the book said (1 1/2 turns out) and mounted the carb back to the engine. Now when it runs, it idle's correctly and sounds good at an idle speed but when revving the engine rpm's, it begins to cut out and backfires through the exhaust. It almost seems like it is running out of fuel or there was some trash blocking fuel flow but I have removed the carb twice more and found no trash. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

You are still not getting the pilot circuit clean. Make sure that you pass a wire brush wire through the pilot jet hole several times and look through it to be sure it is completely clean.

I've got a YAMAHA XJ900S DIVERSION year 95 and my oil gallery window has gone misty, it is therefore impossible to see my actual oil level. Any ideas on how to remedy this situation other than removing the clutch cover and cleaning the window from the inside. I assume this problem has been caused by condensation as the bike is left outside overnight. However if this problem does indicate anything else I would be grateful for your advice. Thanks and happy new year. Mick.

You might try using a good flashlight to check level. Or it may be possible to order a new window. It is on some Yamaha models.

I have a 1982 Honda 200E Big Red. I would like to replace the roller bearings (big end)and connecting rod on my engine. The roller bearings ride on a shaft which is pressed into the crank. This shaft also holds the two halves of the crank together. I basically have two questions. Question one is there does not appear to be anything which would align the two halves of the crank. The shaft which holds the rod in place appears to be completely round. It does not appear to have a flat spot or a pin which would help to align the two halves of the crank. I could align the two halves of the crank by orienting the counter weights in line but could not hold this orientation exactly. I am not sure how much margin of error is acceptable at this point. Question two is should this be done by a professional. Will the crank and rod need to be rebalanced after reassembly?

Take it to a shop. You need a 10 ton press, truing stand, crank blocks, and filler gauges. These would cost you many many times the cost of the work, which is rather routine for a shop.

My son's little JR 50 will start but if you let it stop after running for 10 minutes it will not start for hours. I just replaced the rings on the 0.5 bore piston and there is no change. The air filter is clean, the exhaust is not full of carbon. If you pull the plug it will be wet with gas. I pulled the carburator and cleaned it and the pin and seat seal when they are meant to seal. My sense is that if it stops once the engine is hot it floods itself. I have been able to open up the plug and dry it out for 5-10 mins and sometimes get it started but not often. Can anyone help me?

Check the choke and make sure it is closing after the engine warms up. If it is ok, then check the compression. It could be low. The other thing to check for is an air leak between the carburetor and intake.

Hi I own a 2001 Yamaha grizzly, I was out riding and it just died on me. I let it sit for awhile and it started again. I let it idle for awhile and it just stalled again I repeated these steps until it just would not start again. I had to get towed back to the truck, I tried to start it again and it ran for awhile and then just stalled we put it on the truck and went home. When i got home I tried to start it and it started no problem then it died again. I changed the spark plug and cleaned all the connections I then tried to check for spark with battery and pull start. I still had no spark. I removed the primary coil and got it tested at the local Yamaha dealer they said it was fine. From the way it was acting do you think it was my cdi breaking down until it finally died? Or what else could it be thanks for the help Love your site Darryl Ontario Canada. P.S. I still have no spark

Make sure you ground the plug body when you are checking spark. It sounds like you have bad gas or dirt in the tank. If you have a gas filter, check that. I think that after sitting a while, gas gradually fills the hose to the carb and the unit will start and run for a few minutes until the gas in the hose is consumed. Then it dies. If you lose spark but can restart it after the unit cools down, then have the coil checked.

I am unable to find the oil filter location on a 2003 Ninja 250, and the manual doesn't show a picture or diagram. The manual also neglects to even describe the location using words.

It should be on the bottom of the engine covered by a round cap with about a 17mm or 19mm hex bolt head in the center of it.

Hi, I have a Yamaha 1100xv 1993. I purchased my bike from a guy who rode it then stopped riding it and decided to sell it. When I purchased the bike it ran rough and he told me to just change the plugs so I did and it still ran rough. So a friend took the carbs off and cleaned out the jets and the gas tank and the reserve tank and changed the fuel filter. The bike runs great! The problem I have now is that when I go for a ride and then I stop the bike will not start. This does not happen all the time. I have pushed started it to get home sometimes. It has an electric start.