Coronado
by Harl Hoppler

Arizona - Colorado - New Mexico

Throw into the mix an elevation change of almost 6000 feet, and you have an exciting and challenging sport bike road. More on that later... Anyway, I may be comparing apples and oranges, as they say, but maybe it should be “Crookedest Block in the World” for Lombard Street, and “Crookedest Road in the World” for the Coronado Trail.

Taking advantage of this special road has become an annual Memorial Day trek for some of my buddies and me. The ride centers around good roads, good food, good Scotch (in the evening, of course), and good comrades. We are always on the lookout for new places to ride, and getting to the Coronado Trail is half the fun. Bob is riding his ZX6R, Tom his YZF 600R, and a newcomer, Mike, is on a Moto Guzzi 1100i cruiser. I’m on my ZX9R. Mike and I leave Fort Collins after lunch on Thursday and meet the others at Bob’s house in Denver. The first leg of the jaunt is freeway through Colorado Springs, then backroads from there almost all the way to La Veta, CO. South out of the Springs, we take CO 115 to Florence. The wind is howling and we’re stuck amidst commuters heading home. Otherwise, the road would be good, a wide two lane with good visibility and long sweepers. At Florence, we take CO 67 south to Wetmore. The road is still good two lane but there is no traffic. We’re in relatively flat terrain, but it provides long vistas of mountains and plains. We catch CO 96 out of Wetmore and the road get twisty enough to be interesting. It’s rock and roll time.

At McKensie Junction we take CO 165. A few miles south of McKensie Jct, we stop at Bishop’s castle. Jim Bishop is building his dream, literally a castle, in the pines. He’s an interesting individual who’s fighting local government for his rights to build this impressive structure. After chatting with him a bit it’s back on the road, which goes straight again as we head out on the plains. We take I-25 to Walsenburg, and from there we get on US 160 toward La Veta. The road is open and not very interesting, but we’re making real good time.

Not far from our turnoff, a blast of K band radar slows us. The source isn’t immediately visible, but we slow for a bit and pretty quick, here comes a State Patrol car, thankfully not running in “instant on” mode. We take CO 12 into La Veta and find the motel. The Cuchara River Cabins are quiet, cheap, and clean. We unload, lube chains, hit the rooms, and change into shorts. Bob and Tom break out the cigars. I break out my single malt. 270 miles isn’t bad for a half day. We head into town for some honest-to-God barbecue at the Covered Wagon, a local restaurant. The waitress calls everyone “Darlin” and is a hit with us all. The food is awesome, actually cooked in a smoker, not simmered in some too-sweet sauce. The strawberry/rhubarb pie for dessert is real tasty, too.

...but the snakes make for more than a few bobbles

Next morning it’s up early for the longest leg of the trip. It’s 475 miles from La Veta to Ruidoso, New Mexico. We breakfast to another chorus of “Darlins” and head out.The first section of the road, CO 12, is twisty and fun almost all the way to Walsenburg. The surface is not great in some places, but lots of turns and good visibility. From Walsenburg we take Interstate to just a little south of Raton where we catch US 64. Initially, it isn’t much better than I-25, but improves after we pass through Cimarron. As we get into the hills, the road gets twisty. It’s hard riding, though, as the aspen shadows on the road often camouflage fresh tar snakes. We all pick interesting lines in an attempt to use late apexes, but the snakes make for more than a few bobbles. We pass a few Harleys, most of them on trailers, headed to the rally in Red River. At NM 434 we head south for Angel Fire. As we lose elevation, the road gets narrower and narrower. Finally the center line goes away completely and we’re blasting along a very narrow twisty road that descends rapidly. It’s a great road, but you really have to pay attention. At Mora, the road opens up, flattens out, and loses its curves.

We get the interstate briefly near Las Vegas, and then hit US 84 south. The road looks terrible on the map, but the first 20 or so miles are a lot of fun, running up, over, and around sandstone mesas. We even pass a winery near Los Montoyas. Lots of interesting curves, though, and lots of juniper trees and other vegetation. All too quickly we climb out of the interesting stuff and get out into high desert. Straight roads, heat, and wind greet us. We make fair time, but the Guzzi’s forte is not straight line high speeds. Mike is a former MSF instructor and can make surprisingly good time in the curves, but... At a gas stop, the wind is bad enough to blow my helmet off the island and roll it across the parking lot. Fortunately, my shield survives unscathed. We catch NM 219 for a short stint, then change direction on US 54, heading into the wind.

We stop at the all too appropriately named Four Winds cafe in Carrizozo for a break. This last bit of road heading into Ruidso looks interesting. And it would be, too, except there’s a ton of Memorial Day traffic. The horse racing season kicks off this weekend, so the town is crowded. We pull into our motel and find it’s perfect. The Pines Motel on the River sits on the bank of the Rio Ruidoso. Our rooms are off the street and next to the river, where a little gazebo beckons. Shorts, cigars, and scotch are the order of the afternoon. A forgetable dinner at an expensive local steak house, and it’s time to pack it in.

They must figure that we can’t hide too many illegal aliens in the bikes’ tanks...

The first third of the next day’s journey is all flat, straight, and boring. We leave early, taking US 70 all the way to Las Cruces. After a brief stop at the White Sands National Monument for pics, we continue. In Las Cruces we catch NM 185 to get off the interstate. The road moseys along the Rio Grande. It’s pleasant enough but well populated and not a place to make too much time. Pecan farms line the road in places. As the road goes north, it becomes a bit more twisty and less populated.

The Border Patrol check station waves us through without making us stop. They must figure that we can’t hide too many illegal aliens in the bikes’ tanks... A good Mexican breakfast at Hatch, Green Chile Capitol of the World, then NM 26 west out of town.

The wide open high desert terrain means straight roads and good time. NM 27 heads north to Hillsboro. The first third is a more of the same then the road runs into the hills and develops some curves. A few of the curves are tricky, starting just past the crest of a hill. At Hillsboro, the road gets even better. People in Silver City won’t even use this road to head ease, because it has too many curves and takes too much time. In other words, it’s perfect for sport bikes... Desert terrain has given way to mountains and pines. The section of NM 152 through the Gila National Forest is awesome. Lots of tight twisty stuff with fair surface and visibility. Not much traffic, either.

The section of road west of Kingston is particularly fun. Leaving the national forest, we drop into more desert with fewer curves and more people. As we get close to Silver City, huge tailings piles from local open pit mining operations dot the landscape. Silver City is busy and crowded. After a false start, we head out of town on US 180. Darn, more high speed high desert... It isn’t particularly challenging and we make good time to the turnoff for Mule Creek on NM 78. The first third of the road to Clifton is pretty boring, but once through Mule Creek, it gets interesting with lots of twisties. We hammer through this section and are soon at Clifton, ready for a break.

Sharp curves and mountain grades next 60 miles!

It’s hot and having covered almost 350 miles, everyone is ready for get off the bikes for a bit. Gas for the bikes and coffee for the riders. A little coffee shop serves us a variety of cold caffeine-laden drinks. Nothing like a good buzz to get us the last hundred or so miles. We head out and promptly get to... a guard shack on the road? The cute young female security guard asks knowingly “Looking for 191?” and proceeds to redirect us. Another quick stop at the overlook at the nation’s largest open pit mining operation and we’re off. A county sheriff going the other way gives a ‘take it easy’ hand signal as we head out. Why, whatever does he mean... A large sign looms prohibiting vehicles over 40 feet in length. Another says “Sharp curves and mountain grades next 60 miles.” We’re soon out of desert scenery into the trees of the Apache National Forest. Then we enter a stretch of road with a speed limit sign. 20 m.p.h. for the next 21 miles.

We have arrived at Nirvana. It’s an amazing stretch of road with tight turn after tight turn, all climbing. A brief breather with only serious curves gives way to another manic 15 mile stretch posted at 20. Fatigue drops away and we pound up the road. Bob and I pass a lone RV struggling up the road on one of the only relatively straight spots in the road at Four Bar Mesa. Tom and Mike have a more difficult time, as they catch him at the next section of curves. Our only focus is the road as the curves continue. There is no scenery, only this serpentine stretch of asphalt. Strayhorse Divide has another rare relatively straight stretch. Other than that, it’s hard to pass the odd vehicle, as the visibility is not good. Bob gets around someone in a pickup and when I finally do, I almost miss him at an overlook. After about 50 miles of these elysian roads, he’s pulled off at a wide spot in the road that offers a view spanning many miles to the west. Tom joins us, but Mike’s concentration is too great and he sails by. A few more minutes relaxing and we head off.

At Blue Vista, basically the top of the grade, the road changes. It flattens out and opens up into alpine meadows flanked by pine forests. Long sweepers and short straights replace the almost frenzied twisties. After 30 relatively easy miles, we coast into the Sportsman’s Lodge in Alpine. As usual, the parking lot is full of bikes, some Harleys from Tucson, lots of Kawi Concours, and a sprinkling of other makes from all over the west. All are here to enjoy the road we just experienced. Frank, our host at the Lodge, greats me and we chat for a minute. Frank is a motorcyclist and his motel is a great destination with nice rooms and reasonable rates. His choice of location isn’t accidental. After unpacking the necessities and performing requisite daily maintenance, it’s time to talk with all the bikers. We cuss and discuss various roads throughout the west and generally have a great time. We wander off to dinner later and then all hit the sack.

Next morning we get an early start. It’s chilly. The road east into Arizona, US 180, is a wide two-lane with fair visibility and a nice surface.

Then it’s on to Socorro, Bernardo, and finally Mountainair. There is still basically no traffic and we make good time. North of Mountainair on NM 55, the roads finally develop some curves and scenery. We moderate our pace a bit as it is fairly well populated and there is a fair amount of traffic.

Near Tajique, we catch NM 337. One stretch of his road is wide two lane with a great set of twisties. It’s packed with cars, unfortunately, so we can’t enjoy it. Further north, now on NM 14, we get impressive vistas of mountains to the west. Later, we pass through Madrid, which is packed with its annual jazz festival. As we approach Santa Fe, the road gets crowded and it’s hot. We make the motel, unpack, and change into our tourista clothes. It’s early as the day was short, only about 350 miles. We wander around the Plaza looking for a nice place to eat a late lunch and later, dinner. Our favorite restaurant, El Farol, is rebuilding after a fire. Between the late lunch and dinner, we manage to have two pretty average meals.

Next morning it’s up early and on the road for breakfast. It’s 73 miles to Taos. Until we get north of Alcalde on NM68, the road is bland suburban sprawl. It gets much more interesting following the meanders of the Rio Grande. A perfect appetizer for breakfast, that unfortunately doesn’t last all the way to Taos. We stop at Doc Martin’s in the Historic Taos Inn to eat. The food and service is great and they serve by far the best coffee we find on the trip. Suitably fueled, we continue. Unfortunately, the trip back is a grind. Tom has a plane to catch, so we take the path of least resistance, which includes a lot of interstate. In Walsenburg, we lose Mike to a group of Harley riders whose pace suits him more. Traffic on I-25 is about what you’d expect for a holiday weekend. About the only entertainment is some helmetless clown on a Harley who tries to prevent Tom from passing him. I drop Bob and Tom in Denver and beat it to Fort Collins. I’m home by 3:30.

I wish I could describe more of the Coronado Trail. I have a feeling that in most cars, it would be a chore. Probably would be on the wrong bike, too. Taking it for the scenery might be worthwhile, but I just don’t remember. For me, it’s the seemingly unending curves. I’m not a creature of habit, and tend to look for new places to ride. The Coronado Trail overrides those feelings.

What’s the plan for next year? Maybe the Salt River Canyon. There are good looking roads going into Show Low and Whitewater. Lots of underutilized curvy roads in that part of the world... And definitely, more Coronado Trail.

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