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The 1999 Land of Enchantment 1000 A Blast from the Past by Chris Porter
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Travelogue provided by |
At Southwest Bike...every (past) ride was successful...this is not one of those stories!
Ya know, weve been pretty lucky here at South West Bike. Of all the rides
weve taken over the years, nothing has ever prevented its finish, no one has
ever had to bail due to illness or breakdown, no major tragedies have ever befallen any of
the staff or the contributing writers. Just one peek in the archives will show every ride
was successful, devoid of unfortunate pitfalls, each meal a feast, each stop a palace, any
inconvenience swept away swiftly and expertly. Yes, over the years on reported and even
unreported rides, the sun shone down on our Adonis-like faces at the end, each of us
smugly confident in our god-like abilities. Kings of all we surveyed. Keepers of The
Faith. Defenders of
well, you get it. This is not one of those stories.
with a membership document that you can proudly hang next to your yachting trophies and your Gillian Anderson fan club certificates, Bucky. You get in by doing at least a thousand miles in 24 hours or less, documented and reviewed by the Association before membership is approved. Which is what Goat and I did last April. 1118 miles in 18 hours according to the Associations review committee got us in. Sun shining on faces at the finish, chests swelling with pride, looks of disbelief from the finishing witnesses... Our story starts with fellow Iron Butt member Jeff Foster deciding to host an organized endurance ride in our home state of New Mexico sanctioned by the Association, the Land of Enchantment 1000 (hey, what am I doing here? More info at ironbutt.com or ~jeffos/LOE1000.htm). This would be different from the independent ride that we did in April. This would be an organized rally/scavenger hunt event, with the finish standings based on points accumulated, not total miles ridden. Unclear on the concept? Just check out the websites. Anyhoo, Goat immediately got into the spirit of things by volunteering us (us??) to hand out info packets to area dealerships and help promote things on a local basis. We were generally met with incredulous looks and shaking of heads. Publisher Roe posted the link on the front page. The Iron Butt Association ran a link on its web site. Fred Donner looked at the party he was going to guide through the mountains and salivated. Yep, things were starting off juuust fine While Goat and I were in, Publishers Roe and Morrison dropped from the lineup before they were ever signed up. The official reasons were cited as "prior engagements" amid rumors of Morrison being in Crete earning yet another yachting trophy and Roe getting pec implants and a fanny tuck. No hard feelings, fellas. We did, however, sign up a couple of endurance FNGs to shadow us to see how its done(snicker!). My old college friend Kristi Hopper-Brooks would hammer her Suzuki GS 500E for this ride, and certified madman Jim Lichtensteiger (thats just too damn long to type. From here on, he is known as Jim L.) piloted his new Bandit 1200. Goat would be aboard his hot-rodded Bandit 12, while yours truly would be on my infamous yellow K100RS.Bike prep was pretty straight-forward. While I overhauled the top-end/ replaced tyres and brakes/ re-packed steering stem and swingarm bearings/ tour-outfitted Kristis 500/ tried to repair the previously goofed-up carbs on Jim Ls Bandit/overhauled the water&oil pump/ replaced tyres/hunted down and killed a niggling electrical problem on my Beemer, I think Goat washed his Suzuki. Whew! Time for a ride! Oh, Lord, what have we gotten ourselves into? Friday, October first at 5 p.m. found us at the tech inspection held at the Winrock Inn at I-40 and Louisiana boulevard here in Albuquerque. While volunteers were handing out rally packets and passports (booklets to keep track of bonus sites and scavenger hunt answerssee the web site) Jeff and his merry band of inspectors were checking vehicle registration/insurance papers, giving bikes the one-over, and checking for mandatory equipment. Upon seeing the caliber of endurance-riding heavyweights that showed up for our little endeavor, Goat and I quickly and wisely decided just to finish and not try to home-town the out-of-town big dogs that showed up. Goat had arrived much earlier than I had, and had already passed tech.
into? I went and found good friend and volunteer tech geek Tom (Call me Tome) Houston to tech my bike and mandatory equipment (not THAT equipment you perverts!). I figured that I was a shoo-in. Everything was in order. Not one piece of paperwork was out of place. And I had duked him a twenty when I pulled in. No problemo. Everything went smooth until I had to show vehicle registration. It wasnt there. It wasnt anywhere. A frantic strip-search of the bike and myself (eew!) failed to produce the necessary paperwork. Oh, GOD its Mexico all over again! Will I ever learn? (see "Guaymas, Mexico" article, archived on the front page. Fanny tuck indeed! Steve Roe, Publisher.) Still not worried. I duked Tom another ten, and he promptly turned me in (Doh!!) to head tech inspector Jim Hickerson for mercy consideration. Jim was full of compassion. "Do you ever have registration on this thing?" he asked. I can see Jim is a SWBIKE reader. I stalk off, mumbling something about being here at 8 am tomorrow, as Winrock is a mall and they have a DMV there. I will get a copy of my registration then. Ten thousand comedians in the world I am a South West Bike God. The sun always shines down upon my Adonis-like face Six-thirty a.m. October the second, rally day!! I call Goat to see if breakfast is still on at Hurricanes Cafe. "Yeah" he replies. "Then right after that, I have to get my rear tyre fixed." What?? Seems that Goat had picked up a sheet metal screw in the back tyre somewhere. After Goat, Tom, Kristi, and I finished wolfing down pancakes and eggs, Goat is off to get the rear tyre repaired, while I was off to stand in line at the DMV (whaddya mean there is 63 people ahead of me? Its eight friggin am.!!)
The sun always shines down upon my Adonis-like face." The guy sitting next to me kept sobbing and calling me momma. This does not bode well. Long about 9:30, Kristi came running in. "Dave (her husband, and a good friend who thought we were nuts) found your registration!" Turns out it was on their computer desk, left there when I had E-mailed Jeff from their house to give him my registration information. Things are looking up! We left Crying Charlie and the rest of humanity to get to the rally. After showing my registration to Jim ("Is this the first time you have actually had this WITH the bike?" he asks. Grr!)Hickerson, Kristi and I sat and planned out the bonus sites with Jim L. Goat had not showed up yet. No worries. Gods. Sun. Adonis. We informed Jeff that Goat was gonna be a bit late. The majority of the riders had already left. Some had received consideration for a late start, such as us and fellow competitor Kim Haven, whose BMW R1100 RS had developed a nasty rear drive leak the night before. She was waiting at the same place Goat was for repairs. Just as I had called on the cell phone to see how things were going, Goat shows. Without showing Goat the bonus info, we decide to get going right away. It was now 10:40, with most of the crowd already an hour ahead of us. Jeff and rally starter Ira Agins reassure us, "The official starting time is between 9 a.m. and noon. There is plenty of time. Do not feel that you have to catch up to the main group!" Our official starting time: 10:45 a.m. Here we go!
to disappointment, however as Socorro is reached. We decided to check the tyres on Goats Bandit. 33 front, 11 rear. Check again. Same. Check again with my gauge. Same. Check with Kristis and Jim Ls gauges. Same. Oh, no! "Maybe the shop did not set it correctly before you left," I ventured. "No. I set them before we left," Goat says. Damn and double damn! I had no idea what to do. Steve had been my riding companion and good friend for many years. The mere thought of leaving him this early in the rally disappointed me greatly. I considered throwing in the towel right then and there. Steve must have sensed my apprehensions. "Dont you dare quit on my part. Take these two newbies out and have a good rally. Ill limp this sumbitch home, and be checking up on you along the way." I reluctantly agreed. As Jim L, Kristi, and I left for Trinity site, I watched Goat ride off home on his crippled mount. We later discovered he had to stop and air up the dead tyre five times before he made it the hundred miles back home. As I was leading the two FNGs into the middle of the stinking desert, my heart profoundly sank. "Cmon, get it together," I thought. "Sun. Gods. Adonis". Damn. Heading back toward Socorro, I was about to do a fine job of missing the bonus sights sprinkled along the way, had it not been for Bonus Site Captain Hopper-Brooks pulling over to record them usually with me sailing by not realizing where they were. We had already lost Jim L. when we pulled over at the Owl Bar and Café in San Antonio to do just that. We caught him at the fuel stop in Socorro (werent we just here?) on our way to the western part of the state, and the next leg of the rally. Doing good. Sun gods. Adidas. While I was happy that the ride was proceeding on schedule and we were beginning to reel in other riders who left long before we did, I was beginning to get the feeling that all was not right. Fuel and bonus site stops were beginning to lengthen each time. Kristi was starting to look a bit gray around the gills. When I finally got the nerve up to ask at the Very Large Array Radio Telescope Observatory stop how she was, she looked at her shoes and snapped that she was fine. Hokay. She had been fighting off an inner ear infection all week, but informed us at breakfast that she was 100% ready to go. It was now 3:30. The 100% was dwindling. I tried not to worry, and was failing. I did not push the issue, and Kristi rewarded (bribed) me with a banana before we lit out towards Datil Wells campground and the next bonus site. On the road back to highway 60, I saw a rider pulled over in the distance with gear spread all around the bike. Not wanting (much) to leave a competitor stranded in the middle of the desert with a broken bike, I pulled over to see what the problem was. I could now see he obviously was not one of ours. A seriously Baja-kitted XR600R Honda was parked in the road, its owner milling around. While this in itself is not strange, the fact that he had a large guitar strapped to his back took a minute to soak in. Dressed in shorts, Tevas, a tee-shirt and a genuine Gilligan replica hat, he looked at me for a moment while I tried to put this little scene right in my head. "Uh, need help?" I ventured. "Naw, duuude!", came the Bill and Teds Excellent Adventure reply. "Im just lubing my chain!!" He punctuated the reply with a peace sign and a surfers grin. As I was riding off, I could not help but wonder what he was doing out there. He was not at the visitors center at VLA when we were there. There was only one road in and out, and we were on it. I spent the next few miles tortured with the image of this guy out in the middle of nowhere singing a nocturne to a rabbit or a bush. Cmon, Porter, keep it together. Ra, the Sun God. Atlantis. The length of the fuel and bonus stops continued to increase, along with my concern over my riding companion. Through Datil, Pie Town, Quemado, and Reserve, I could see that Kristi was sick, and getting sicker. She was determined to keep going and finish, reinforcing the point by setting a torrid pace on highway 32, a wonderfully scenic and twisty road from Quemado to Apache Creek. We stopped for the bonus stamp at the service station in Apache Creek and decided to check tire pressures and oil levels. My concern was deteriorating to stress, and that was starting to consume patience. I inadvertently barked at Kristi for not bringing extra oil to top off her Suzuki, which was showing a bit low. Kim Haven, who had ridden a marathon of a rally so far (she did not get out of the shop until noon and had already caught us by putting in one hell of a ride), witnessed it. She commented to Kristi that I needed to have a part of my (male) anatomy adjusted. She was right. She volunteered. I tread lightly around Kim for the rest of the rally. She could do it. Jim L wisely stayed out of it. Working our way down highway 12 to highway 180 on our way to Silver City I was trying to tamp down the awful feeling that Kristi might not make it. The feeling was not helped by the fact that the sun was gone, and it was getting cold. Ahead was the mandatory stop in Las Cruces, then across the Sacramento Mountains to the high plains of eastern New Mexico. It was dark. Very dark. And it was going to be very dark for a long time. As we pulled in to Silver City, I knew that I had a tough decision to make. She came out of the ladies room and sat in front of me in the booth. "Youre sick." I hated saying it. "You have been sick all day." She put her head down and nodded. I felt horrible confronting her like this. Maybe later I could find a puppy to kick and make myself feel better. The look on Kristis face certainly wasnt doing it. We decided to at least make the Las Cruces (it was shorter than backtracking to Albuquerque) mandatory checkpoint, and see how she felt then. I downed a quick slice of ham and pepperoni while Kristi sipped water. Food was as out of the question than stopping was for her. Donning cold weather gear for the ride down to Deming, fatigue started making its presence known among worry and stress. We can still do it though. Roe is a sun god. Alanis Morrisette wears sneakers. Huh?
to the odd sensation of 40 people milling around 20 bikes, and no one making a sound. You could hear crickets chirping, fer gosake! Eerie. We made our way into the house and officially checked in with Jeff, picking up the extra bonus points for deciding to take an hour break. I informed Jeff that Kristi was not feeling well. He already knew. Jim L. had informed him of such when he showed up earlier. Jeff told us that the Las Cruces checkpoint was designed to be a bail-out point should circumstances dictate so. These circumstances certainly did if Kristi did not feel better after the hour rest. Kristi found a couch to crash out on while I found Jim L and told him the plan. He sort of figured this might happen. I told him with any luck, we would catch him by Roswell. We would not see him again until the finish. Kristi awoke, and felt no better. I had a feeling she wouldnt, but did not want to vocalize it. We suited up just after the checkpoint closed at midnight to take the bailout route up I-25 back to Albuquerque. Jeff informed us that 11 other riders failed to make the checkpoint, so all was not lost. Missing the stamps from the Las Cruces checkpoint meant a huge point loss, so even though we would miss the eastern leg we might still finish ahead of the missing riders. He expressed concern that some riders had not been heard from. Kristi and I told him of the DNFs that we knew about, such as last seeing Tim Meeks calling a friend from Reserve to come pick up his R1100RS, the rear tyre showing cords after having shedded its exoskeleton. Passing by the highway 70 exit on northbound I-25 dispirited me totally. I did not necessarily feel bad for me, but for Kristi and Goat. We had been looking forward to this rally for months, constantly checking the web site for updates, planning, preparing, scheming about it. Goats rally was over before it even started, and now Kristis was also ending prematurely. I briefly thought about tearing off to the eastern leg as I watched the offramp appear. Over the Sacramentos into Ruidoso, then across to Roswell. This is where we planned to make killer time, as I had grown up in this end of the state. The distances were great, and lightly patrolled this time of night. Roswell to Portales (went to college there)would be easily dispatched, as would Portales to Melrose over to Fort Sumner across to Vaughn, finally up to Clines Corners back to Albuquerque. I make that trip at least 4 times per year visiting family and friends. Not tonight, though. I could not leave my friend to fend for herself ill any more than I could leave a fellow rider bleeding by the side of the road. As the offramp made itself small in the mirror, I thought of Jim L. and about 30 other riders out there being Sun God Roes and listening to Madonna. I was getting tired. Making our way up I-25, it dawned on me that this is the second time this year I have done this same leg on an endurance ride at about the same time of night at about the same temperature, both on moonless nights. Which is another way to say it sucks. Dark, cold, and just flat boring were no way to prematurely end this rally, yet here we were. It didnt last long, though. 12 miles south of San Antonio, Kristi pulls over. Sick again. As she waits for the wave to pass, a pickup pulls in behind us. Its Jeff and his sister Gail, on their way back to Albuquerque to oversee the finish in a few hours. We wait as Kristi gets to feeling better, then take off againjust to pull over again 1 mile later. Sick again? No. The bike is starting to cut out and die. Oh, perfect. I look over everything, see nothing obvious (at 2:30 am, nothing is obvious) wrong, and we try again. Same result three times. The Suzuki would make it about a mile then quit again. It had fuel(?) and spark. Air was obviously in abundance. Each time it would quit, there would be several minutes of roadside diagnosis trying to get the ailing Suzi to run. Finally, at mile marker 131 it would go no further, refusing to even light off. We pushed it well off the road, locked it up, put Kristis tankbag in one of my saddlebags, put her soft saddlebags in Jeffs truck, Kristi climbed on the back of the Beemer, and off we were to Socorro (again) for a final fuel stop. Getting back on the interstate, I was mildly proud of myself for staying awake so well. That lasted until about Lemitar (I think) when all the concerns, the stress of breakdowns and illnesses, the disappointments, everything hit me all at once. I was suddenly very exhausted. Keeping the bike in one lane took great effort and concentration, no simple feat considering I was being followed by the rallymaster. No pressure. I was beginning to lose it, and did not want to admit it. The lights from oncoming traffic was beginning to dance before my eyes, the lights turning into bears, dancing bears, with little top-hats and canes, dancing and singing bears, singing "Loving You", by Minnie Riperton. Egads, I hate that song! Being sung by well-appointed bears was not helping. Maintain lane, maintain speed, God Roe, where is the sun? Maybe its in Crete with Morrison and Madonna. Cmon, concentrate!! Drop Kristi off at her house, maybe get an hour sleep at home, then make a flying trip to Vaughn and back for another Saddlesore 1000 award, gosh its bright, are we riding into a great majestic palace? Yes, guarded by bears from the Queens guard! What? No, wait, thats just Albuquerque. We made it. I knew we would. Now someone get these damn bears out of here. Back to the Winrock, official finishing time 9:04 am, 864 miles added to the Beemers odometer. Goat and Tom were there, anxious to find out what happened to the two other people I was supposed to be riding with. Halfway through the Readers Digest version, Jim L. came riding in, having completed the thousand. I sat down by my bike in the parking lot, looking at the sun shining down on all the Adonis-like faces of the finishers. . POSTMORTEM Dave (remember him? Kristis husband, the one that accurately quipped we were nuts) and I spent that afternoon going back down I-25 to retrieve the Suzuki. The postmortem later revealed that some moron had switched the lines coming out of the fuel tank to the petcockmeaning that when the bike was on the "on" position, it was actually on the "reserve" position. Switching to "reserve" meant it was outta gas, buck. I told Kristi to fire her mechanic. She reminded me that I was the mechanic. Yeah, I know that. Fire him! Please! The Banquet was held that evening at the Atomic Museum on Kirkland Air Force Base. Dinner was eaten, awards were handed out, new friendships were made. Bob Norton invited us to Colorado to run the Thin Air TT, and Kim invited us along to the Waltz Across Texas rally. Oh, yeah! I can feel the sun on my face now Copyright©1997-99 Southwest Bike Travel-Zine Inc. |