The American Great  West

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  1. US-84 towards Chama. Approximately ten miles before Chama, you will enter the village of Tierra Amarilla. In Tierra Amarilla, turn east onto 64. The road will start up through a series of great turns toward the top, which lies at about 10,000 ft. From the rest area at the top, you can look back at Jawbone Mountain and the valleys below. Continuing on toward Tres Piedras, you will pass Hopewell lake, a nice place for a picnic. Past Tres Piedras, 64 leads into the west side of Taos.
  2. State road 68 through the Rio Grande valley and Taos. Riding 68 north toward Taos, you can stop at numerous sites along the way and watch the white-water rafters go down the river. While in the canyon, keep an alert eye for rocks in the road, as the walls are very steep and this is a regular event. Passing through Taos, turn west on 64 toward Tres Piedras. West of Taos, stop and enjoy the view at the Rio Grande Gorge bridge. After the bridge, continue on to Tres Piedras and the reverse of route #1. A side trip on route #1 could include the ten miles to Chama, where you can see the Cumbres and Toltec railroad, with restored steam locomotives.

Be sure to note that if the weather permits, 64 between Tres Piedras and Tierra Amarilla is spectacular during the last part of September, when the aspens and oaks are in full color.

As an alternate, if one doesn't want to stray to far off I25 go to Hillsboro and then head South on State Route 27. Big sweepers, no traffic, a few free ranging beasts, ghost towns, a great ride. To head back to I25 take Rte 26 to Hatch the Chile capital of the world.

Westbound -- the downhill direction -- is highly recommended; eastbound looks like a slow, brutal grind in first and second with the smells of Prestone and clutch lining competing for the annihilation of your mood. There seems to be some 4WD/dirt-bike activity near the bottom. I don't recall gas or services being available anywhere on either road, so tank up in Goldfield or Beatty, NV. Afterwards? In winter, be prepared to ponder how the Sierra Nevada got its name as you make a long run up or down US 395 after reaching Big Pine; in the summer there are more-direct options. As always when barnstorming the "American outback," be mindful of cattle or game in the road; neglected road surfaces; and the waddling war wagons of the Winnebago tribe.

Further along, the highway passes through three small towns and near the aptly named Kodachrome Basin State Park and Grosvenor Arch. It then twists and winds for almost an hour through a series of red- and white-rock canyons until it reaches the town of Escalante (there's a small petrified forest nearby). Beyond Escalante, the spectacular highway does the unimaginable and becomes even more spectacular, winding through terrain so rugged that it's amazing there is even a road there. Stop and see Calf Creek on the way if you have time. A two-hour hike along the bottom of a desert canyon brings you to a spectacular waterfall. Beyond Calf Creek the road follows the top of a narrow rock ridge and eventually comes out into the town of Boulder, home of Anasazi State Park. Next the road becomes alpine, climbing over the top of Boulder Mountain (actually a high plateau). Plenty of alpine hikes and fishing here, along with stupendous views of the road's ultimate destination, Capitol Reef National Park. Capitol Reef lies slightly beyond the end of 12, but is part of the experience of the road. The reef is a hundred mile long cliff with narrow gulches and canyons indented into it. Wonderful hiking and sightseeing for beginning and advanced outdoor types.

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